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  • Right click on the object select center on the platform. https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/16518-mouse-control Anyway I will recommend you to read the manual https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals

  • Karl below as given a good answer to why it will not work as great to do this. To help understand a bit more about electrical power read that quora answer https://www.quora.com/Whats-the-difference-between-amps-watts-and-volts

  • Nice explanation Karl, I will add that it might be cheaper to get a new 24V PSU instead as other component are 24V like the Fan who will also need replacing.

  • In short if you bring 24v to the MightyBoard it won’t be damaged. The damage might occur on the PSU as it might be pushing the limit of the amount of amps it can deliver at 24V. 12v * 25amps = 300W 24v * ?amps = 300W or 300/24 = 12.5 Now if the MightyBoard require more than 6.25 amps to power th…

  • To answer to your question yes you can print directly onto the alu build plate but I will not recommend you to do so for the simple reason that if your print stick too well to the platform you’ll end up pulling on the whole printer and might bend rod. For the glass you can buy one from a local glas…

  • ps: the RC printed plane is not a static model and there is some really clever engineering (this do not assume your design is not clever buddy) in the design of the ribs structure. The static model were just an example relating to pricing and adoption rate but I think you understood what I meant.

  • Which version of Cura you are using?

  • Really nice project CobraGad. IMHO 49 euro for the frame you print yourself it’s way too expensive. You want to bring that price down to increase your adoption rate up. The DIY drone is already a tight niche where you can only score a few buyer that have the passion and desire to do the rest of the…

  • Perso I think 220 is too low and your part now are suffering from what could be referred as delamination. http://reprap.org/wiki/Print\_Troubleshooting\_Pictorial\_Guide#Part\_Temperature Who will make the part really weak and the effect accentuated if moisture has made his way through. The probl…

  • Based on what you described and the picture provided. I will says that it’s most likely your filament as absorbed humidity. This can happen when the filament is not stored properly depending on where you live there is a huge amount humidity in the air and ABS, PLA, Nylon and other filament absorb hu…

  • Based on you description this is most likely coming from the stepper motor driver. On the stepper motor driver there is a little screw like thingy turn this clockwise to increase the current sent to the motor and counter clockwise to decrease it !!!Important!!! if you have a ceramic screw driver the…

  • I’ve heard some good things about the Flashforge but ultimately this is Makerbot architecture clone. IMHO I will not buy it especially if you have a £1000 budget. First things you’ll have to do with that printer is buy some fan and print a pla cooling shroud as it will produce poor pla print if not…

  • Did this start to happen after you flashed Sailfish? If that is the case you might double check that you’ve restored the correct offset http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/install-installing.html#x34-840006.3.1 Does the same behavior occur if you use MakerWare? This is to rule out firmware config…

  • Hi Zak, I got the Duplicator 4 too and it is well known to ooze when dual printing. My best advice is to reduce the temp as much as you can and increase the retraction length and speed in the slicer settings (unfortunately MakerWare is bit restricted unless you dive and create a profile and edit th…

  • Amazing print, nicely detailed and short process to post finish the Bronzefill print. Thanks for sharing

  • In a previous post I’ve mentioned a few missing features and been pointed to some actually existing by other members (thx guys) but no tips. Than here they are in no specific order. - Stringing Increase retraction length. From all the slicer I’ve used Cura out of the box as this settings a bit low …

  • Yes true, I rarely use the feature though as all my printer are networked with OctoPI and usually save the gcode in a specific location to be loaded onto the printer through the network. I will not says MatterControl is the way to go instead of cura not at all but found it convenient to be able to …

  • Nice thx Christian for pointing this out. I’ve used “Pause at height” before but never investigated the other plugin.

  • Thx that’s true I should have try that but wrongly assumed the proprietary extension was associated with a propriatory encoding. But why not offering the options in the user interface instead of hiding it for the end user to find it by chance or by try and error. I should also says that Slic3r do h…

  • Cura is really nice for it’s simplicity, nice visualisation and manipulation of the object. Unfortunately because it’s support feature are so much better than slicr3 I tend to use it more and jump between Cura and Slicr3 slicing engine. The easiest is to use MatterControl who offer all the nice user…

  • Thx Christian, for pointing out that a new stable version was out. I’ve just updated and really like that you don’t have to open the expert setting window to change some of the feature. Shame however I was hoping for some real improvement in the slicing parameter more than just the usability of the …

  • I’ve replied in the thread Filemon, let me know if you have any other question.

  • The printing time difference is due to the cooling settings in Slicr3 within the Filament Settings tab there is a cooling threshold by default this value is set to 30sec. In Cura go to the Advanced view Tab and at the bottom there is a Cool settings with a value called Minimal layer time by default …

  • Nice write up and cool mod on your delta. I’ll definitely be interested in that guide. Pretty good on your 8kg I’m on 14kg in 8 month :slight_smile:

  • IMHO If you require a machine to print accurate dimension, delta like the Kossel are the most challenging to calibrate. The smallest error in tower twisting, printed part or rod length and you will have trouble printing accurately sized object at different size. But if accuracy is a secondary requir…