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26 / 29
Jul 2017

I have a printer form1 + I bought it well and printed well with non-original resins as fun to do just that if you are not in warranty and you have a problem asking you to ship it in united states and a $ 800 expense to repair it then $ 800 buy 2 whanao logically the printing area and less but the expense and proportionate

1) If you are OK with the Formlabs Form 2 cost, great – it’s a good printer and a good company. I have a From 1+. I’m not sure what you mean, but the Form 2 is SLA (stereolithography) which uses a laser to harden the photopolymer resin. A DLP (digital light processor) based printer uses a projected image to harden an entire photopolymer layer at a time.

2) Yes, Formlabs Form 2 will work with 3rd party resins. You may need to experiment with settings, but it is specifically mentioned as a feature of the Form 2.

3) I suggest you watch YouTube review videos to help you choose. The Formlabs Form 2 has had excellent reviews of performance. The D7, not so much. Look foremost for failure rate – if at any time a print fails, you are starting from scratch. So far in my research the Form 2 is the most reliable. The other brands not so much. Other things to look for are print time, resolution, build volume and 3rd party resin compatibility – the importance of these are based on you intended use.

Hi Joushuah, thanks for the reply. Sprintray is a bit out of my budget and work on Windows 10.

Since consistency is the key, … what are your thoughts and experince on Flash forge Hunter. They claim that they have in house projector. I stay in India so Form 2 and Hunter are priced the same. Which one would you suggest?

Hi, thanks for the reply :slight_smile:

since you have any extensive hands on experince, can you tell me the difference between an SLA Resin and a DPL Resin. Price wise they both are at par.

Hi,

Thnx for the reply. Been on youtube and saw many reviews for D7.

Well this would be my first of a kind SLA Printer (or DLP Printer… not yet decided).

So I might as well as go for Plug and Play Printer. D7 may be promising but in India I’m paying almost double for what I buy for the liquid resin… (may be Resins dear to me next to Gold…). So i guess have have to use the Resin wisely. May be in future I might give it a try…

Hey David, Thanks for the reply.

Yess!!! what you say is true about the FDMs.

I think its for XYZ Nobel 1.0 A which seems to accept only the cartrige made by the company. Wont accept 3rd party as each container has got a chip, so each container can only be used once. Dont know… may be its for other printer… (right now its mostly PRINTER overload) will check on it later and confirm

Hi all, I am interested in a SLA printer also so I have been lurking in the shadows listening so excuse me for butting in!

My main question is the cost of a print. Is it a significant amount more than FDM? I know, very general question and maybe apples to oranges.

Here is the setup. I print a “widget” in ABS and it comes out nice. Let’s say it is 90x90x140mm with just a few basic supports. Let’s say I would like to have the part with a better finish that SLA may provide.

I priced my part on 3Dhubs, to see a comparison, and for FDM get a cost of about $30 compared to SLA at a cost of $100-250.

I understand SLA is more costly but I am just trying to get an idea of what I might expect.

Thanks for any thoughts and also all of the great info in this thread.

Yes. Sla is more and there r instances where it might not make sense to use an sla. But, there r pieces that an fdm printer could never be able to print.

I printed A three inch tall piece by about 2.5 inch square. It was hollow and only cost my customer $15 to print. That part would have looked horrible with fdm.

The thing to to know is that fdm printers have infill, where sla will print solid unless the part was made hollow. That could be the reason why the cost was high.

Thanks for the input.

The reason I am looking at this is I have a part/tool (physical therapy tool) that is being made in stainless but we want to do a low cost version. The requirements are that it needs to be a smooth finish and strong.

I did a couple in PLA+ and sanded to get a smooth finish and it is ok but a pain.

I am going to try one in ABS and try vapor smoothing.

I don’t know if SLA would be cost effective at this point to produce these.

3 months later

Hi, All,

We are ApplyLabWork and we have been working diligently to develop FormLabs compatible resins. All our products have been tested extensively on FormLabs printers (Form1+, Form2) and the results are amazing and solved the problems of damaged VAT, post-cure cracks, failed prints, etc… that often occur in 3rd party resin. Since we are manufacturer direct, you will be very impressed with our prices too. Our Modeling Resin, comparable to FormLabs Standard Resin, is US$60/liter and FREE SHIPPING to the 48 continental states!

Please check out our great reviews in FormLabs forum as well as our reviews in 3DHubshttps://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/quality-sladlp-resins-wont-break-your-bank 14

Our newest press release was just published at 3DPrint https://3dprint.com/189647/applylabwork-3d-printing-resins-2/ 9

Linda

Just got a whole bunch if resin from ApplyLabWorks. Tested black so far and it is very good.

2 months later

Yashua,

have you had a chance to play with the Moai? this is great being that you have the Form2. After the whole calibration of the Moai is done, how would you compare them?