S3d has a feature called “ooze shield” for dual extruders… I use this feature to build a wall around ABS part for insulation. The heat remains between the ooze wall and the part. Yes, this works for single extruders. Printing With Multiple Extruders | Simplify3D Software 6
I suspect that those 3 grooves are your issue, As the part cools, those grooves widen out and push out on the wall. Try adding a few more grooves where the bow is, Thus the part is even down the entire length.
If more groves are not an option… Add small beams across the grooves and cut them out when done. The small beams will keep the grooves from expanding/shrinking.
This may not be avoidable given the current state of the art. There are recent threads on the topic from 3d printing luminaries in the Google Plus group. Tall thin walls apparently often end up with long period waves even with PLA and well tuned printers. They seemed stumped, so if you figure it out, please share what solved it for you.
I never thought of that analysis, regarding the grooves. I could not add or remove the grooves since it is a design from a client of mine. I’ll try that beam method, but can you show me an image example maybe on how it would look with beams. Thank you very much by the way.
I’m almost giving up at this moment regarding using abs, and I’m about to resort to using PLA. Do you think PLA has a better chance of surviving this print? Thank you for your response.
The method I use is very simple, just add thickness to the piece by copying and extruding extra walls. In the picture I choose to print flat because heat dissipation through the print is not bad at all and this method inherently avoids warping (at least it works for me). However, if you have no choice but to print vertically, simply add some extra to the center without connecting. I have a 0.1mm gap between my piece and the added support walls, they sometimes stick together but break away easily at the end. Hope that helps.
Thank you very much for showing me an image, a photo is really worth a thousand words. If it works then, you have saved me from a lot of headache, if it doesn’t then It is better to have tried to learn than not tried at all. Thank you once again.
I’ll see if I can implement this as well, Just don’t know how to remove them supports after. Are those supports really sticking to the design itself? Thanks for the image.
Its a rough sketch… Make them as wide as your nozzle diameter, and line them up so they are easy to cut with a razor blade. Since it a relatively straight edge, It should be easy to cut… I prefer flush cut PCB pliers over a razor blade.
Oh and… measure your grooves at the top, middle and bottom to confirm if that is the issue.
If your print settings are as i suspect the solution is simple, I print thin wall stuff all the time down to 0.8 mm, your print settings should be no finer than 0.2 layer height and set the print speed to a fast setting usually the problem is too much heat build up in the print
It’s extremely hard to get your chamber “too hot” for ABS. Stratasys FDM machines turn out excellent prints with ABS and have their chamber temperatures set at 70C to 90C; indeed, the fact that it can heat the chamber to those temperatures are a major part of the reason that they’re able to do so well.
As someone else has already said, it may not be avoidable given the current state of consumer machines. I would try adjusting both the extruder and the bed temperature, but which way I can’t tell you; just try to find whatever works best for you.
