I print at 110C because I am using glass with FFCP blue sticker, but do you think I should go lower on my heatbed? Do you think the heatbed is causing the material to bow like that? I really hope you can help me out on this. Thanks.
As for ABS +, I was surprise that it did not warp on the edges at the bed, but sad when I saw it bow. I think, it is ok for large flat objects, It is definitely better than the ESUN original filaments though.
This happens to me all the time with ABS or ABS +. I personally have resorted to making a custom support structure to reinforce the area that I remove later, might take a bit more time to print but it helps to avoid bulging, in most cases.
Thank you very much for showing me an image, a photo is really worth a thousand words. If it works then, you have saved me from a lot of headache, if it doesn’t then It is better to have tried to learn than not tried at all. Thank you once again.
I’ll see if I can implement this as well, Just don’t know how to remove them supports after. Are those supports really sticking to the design itself? Thanks for the image.
Its a rough sketch… Make them as wide as your nozzle diameter, and line them up so they are easy to cut with a razor blade. Since it a relatively straight edge, It should be easy to cut… I prefer flush cut PCB pliers over a razor blade.
Oh and… measure your grooves at the top, middle and bottom to confirm if that is the issue.
If your print settings are as i suspect the solution is simple, I print thin wall stuff all the time down to 0.8 mm, your print settings should be no finer than 0.2 layer height and set the print speed to a fast setting usually the problem is too much heat build up in the print
Alan
It’s extremely hard to get your chamber “too hot” for ABS. Stratasys FDM machines turn out excellent prints with ABS and have their chamber temperatures set at 70C to 90C; indeed, the fact that it can heat the chamber to those temperatures are a major part of the reason that they’re able to do so well.
As someone else has already said, it may not be avoidable given the current state of consumer machines. I would try adjusting both the extruder and the bed temperature, but which way I can’t tell you; just try to find whatever works best for you.
Ok thanks, I will check the grooves first though just to make sure its the one causing the issue.
try giving it some support manualy and print with PLA in high resolution
Hmmm, Ive had good luck printing a thin wall object about 5 inches tall. I have a FFCP with an active cooling duct i found on thingiverese. Now I know everyone says “DON’T USE A FAN FOR ABS” but I’ve found it improves my print quality significantly. Is what I do is run the extruders at 230, the bed at 110 for the first layer, second layer switch the bed to 100. I’ve found having the bed hotter than that after the first few layers make thin wall parts warp. The fan kicks on at layer 2 at only 20% then at layer three i bump it to 60%. (you might need to change the amount of airflow and when the fan kicks on and off, i was printing at a .3mm layer height) I think the fan is helpful as long as is pulling in already heated air. If you shoot cold air it will warp for sure. My bed setup is a little different than your as well. I use a 5mm piece of glass with kapton and a LIGHT coating of abs slurry. Also, with the fan and ABS the bridging capability is MUCH improved. Im not sure what slicer you are using, but I’ve ben using simplify3d, and love the options they have for cooling control, when you bridge you can have it kick up the speed of the fan, very nice option IMO.
Also, I might add that you may want to try printing it slower as to allow each layer more time to cool.
