Very Thin wall print failure (ABS)

[DesignGuyJared]

I don’t typically print in ABS but you usually don’t want to cool ABS while printing. You want keep that environment as warm as possible and let it cool over time. Do you have an enclosure on your machine or is it in open air?

[JohnnyVF]

Try slowing print speed down to 40mms.

Also so that bed temp seems a bit high. I print at 100C.

How do do you like the ABS+? I was thinking about buying some.

[3dprintwiz]

Yes I do have an enclosure, but I opened the enclosure as soon as I saw that bowing effect, thinking that my chamber was too hot. It is a very thin walled object, actually two peremiters thick only, and without infill. Do you think I should go hotter on my extruder temp or cooler? Thanks for your response by the way.

[3dprintwiz]

I print at 110C because I am using glass with FFCP blue sticker, but do you think I should go lower on my heatbed? Do you think the heatbed is causing the material to bow like that? I really hope you can help me out on this. Thanks.

As for ABS +, I was surprise that it did not warp on the edges at the bed, but sad when I saw it bow. I think, it is ok for large flat objects, It is definitely better than the ESUN original filaments though.

[iTech3DP]

This happens to me all the time with ABS or ABS +. I personally have resorted to making a custom support structure to reinforce the area that I remove later, might take a bit more time to print but it helps to avoid bulging, in most cases.

[PalmersPursuit]

S3d has a feature called “ooze shield” for dual extruders… I use this feature to build a wall around ABS part for insulation. The heat remains between the ooze wall and the part. Yes, this works for single extruders. Printing With Multiple Extruders | Simplify3D Software

I suspect that those 3 grooves are your issue, As the part cools, those grooves widen out and push out on the wall. Try adding a few more grooves where the bow is, Thus the part is even down the entire length.

If more groves are not an option… Add small beams across the grooves and cut them out when done. The small beams will keep the grooves from expanding/shrinking.

[Mark_Walker]

This may not be avoidable given the current state of the art. There are recent threads on the topic from 3d printing luminaries in the Google Plus group. Tall thin walls apparently often end up with long period waves even with PLA and well tuned printers. They seemed stumped, so if you figure it out, please share what solved it for you.

[3dprintwiz]

I was wondering if you could show me an image on how that is done, just an example for me to follow on. By the way thanks for the idea.

[3dprintwiz]

I never thought of that analysis, regarding the grooves. I could not add or remove the grooves since it is a design from a client of mine. I’ll try that beam method, but can you show me an image example maybe on how it would look with beams. Thank you very much by the way.

[3dprintwiz]

I’m almost giving up at this moment regarding using abs, and I’m about to resort to using PLA. Do you think PLA has a better chance of surviving this print? Thank you for your response.

[iTech3DP]

The method I use is very simple, just add thickness to the piece by copying and extruding extra walls. In the picture I choose to print flat because heat dissipation through the print is not bad at all and this method inherently avoids warping (at least it works for me). However, if you have no choice but to print vertically, simply add some extra to the center without connecting. I have a 0.1mm gap between my piece and the added support walls, they sometimes stick together but break away easily at the end. Hope that helps.

[RCole]

Let it bow. Fix it after. See the article about fixing warped prints using a frying pan and hair dryer.

If you decide to use PLA, you can adjust the plastic with hot water, too.

[PalmersPursuit]

Just a quick and dirty example.

[3dprintwiz]

Thank you very much for showing me an image, a photo is really worth a thousand words. If it works then, you have saved me from a lot of headache, if it doesn’t then It is better to have tried to learn than not tried at all. Thank you once again.

[3dprintwiz]

I’ll see if I can implement this as well, Just don’t know how to remove them supports after. Are those supports really sticking to the design itself? Thanks for the image.

[PalmersPursuit]

Its a rough sketch… Make them as wide as your nozzle diameter, and line them up so they are easy to cut with a razor blade. Since it a relatively straight edge, It should be easy to cut… I prefer flush cut PCB pliers over a razor blade.

Oh and… measure your grooves at the top, middle and bottom to confirm if that is the issue.

[iTech3DP]

You are most welcome. I just hope your prints turn out.

[beaumoa]

If your print settings are as i suspect the solution is simple, I print thin wall stuff all the time down to 0.8 mm, your print settings should be no finer than 0.2 layer height and set the print speed to a fast setting usually the problem is too much heat build up in the print

Alan

[karlzhao314]

It’s extremely hard to get your chamber “too hot” for ABS. Stratasys FDM machines turn out excellent prints with ABS and have their chamber temperatures set at 70C to 90C; indeed, the fact that it can heat the chamber to those temperatures are a major part of the reason that they’re able to do so well.

As someone else has already said, it may not be avoidable given the current state of consumer machines. I would try adjusting both the extruder and the bed temperature, but which way I can’t tell you; just try to find whatever works best for you.

[3dprintwiz]

Ok thanks, I will check the grooves first though just to make sure its the one causing the issue.