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Jun 2016

Oh yes, definitely! I’m currently printing the parts for my machine. It uses V-slot and so can be scaled in size, including size of bed. I’m also experimenting with coupling wire to belt. CoreXY is the next logical step after a desktop printer.

(have an original Rostock and also a Kossel delta :slight_smile:

If you need bigger XY motion than go for it, also the option to use a direct driver extruder can be benefit compared to a Delta(lower retraction amounts and to print flex materials).

A good corexy printer can handle almost the same acceleration settings that a delta printer so they can be as fast, but without the pain of calibration and their print resolution is the same across the whole build plate.

If you have a nicely calibrated Delta the print quality of the COREXY will not be better.

I just started ordering some parts for this printer build, I’ve ordered just enough V-Slot to make the outer frame … so I can get a feel for the V-slot and dimensions.

The V-Slot is actually fairly cheap however the Fixtures sure add up!! I’m going to have to have a good think about this … the way I was planning on doing it would require 7 Gantry Plates (the wheeled type) there £24 each… I think I’m going to have to design some Plastic parts to keep the Costs Down.

Ok, small tip, don’t bother with the special slot nuts, just use M5 square nuts. I don’t know about the plates but wanting more control over the process I’ve just finished printing all the fixtures. The D-Bot and C-Bot do this. I use 1.5mm walls, tops and bottoms and 40% infill. Go for the smaller V-slot wheels too, no point the extra bulk :slight_smile:

I found the square nuts recommended in the D-Bot BOM to be a PITA. They often stick when tightened down and you have to push the screws back in to break them loose. They are also marring the insides of the extrusions. I much prefer hammer T-nuts for ease of assembly and adjustment. Bangood sells the M5 Hammer Tnuts for $6.49/100 with free shipping. Not much more that the crappy square nuts.

The problem with most T-nuts, both twist lock and pre-assembly types is that they can bottom out on the raised channels in the D-Bot 3D printed parts before the part is securely fastened sometimes.

I’ve fixed that problem by remodeling all of the D-Bot parts to allow clearance for the T-nuts.

That’s handy to know I did buy a small qauntity of the proper drop in T nuts, they are actually pretty good. I also bought some square nuts there ok they do the job. I just ordered a load of gt2 pulleys from banggood never even thought to look for the nuts on there.

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