That was a very useful link thanks If I do build it I will probably use 4x 10mm smooth rod pillars to support the z axis motion probably also 2 trapezoidal / ball screw rods.
I just started ordering some parts for this printer build, I’ve ordered just enough V-Slot to make the outer frame … so I can get a feel for the V-slot and dimensions.
The V-Slot is actually fairly cheap however the Fixtures sure add up!! I’m going to have to have a good think about this … the way I was planning on doing it would require 7 Gantry Plates (the wheeled type) there £24 each… I think I’m going to have to design some Plastic parts to keep the Costs Down.
Ok, small tip, don’t bother with the special slot nuts, just use M5 square nuts. I don’t know about the plates but wanting more control over the process I’ve just finished printing all the fixtures. The D-Bot and C-Bot do this. I use 1.5mm walls, tops and bottoms and 40% infill. Go for the smaller V-slot wheels too, no point the extra bulk
I found the square nuts recommended in the D-Bot BOM to be a PITA. They often stick when tightened down and you have to push the screws back in to break them loose. They are also marring the insides of the extrusions. I much prefer hammer T-nuts for ease of assembly and adjustment. Bangood sells the M5 Hammer Tnuts for $6.49/100 with free shipping. Not much more that the crappy square nuts.
The problem with most T-nuts, both twist lock and pre-assembly types is that they can bottom out on the raised channels in the D-Bot 3D printed parts before the part is securely fastened sometimes.
I’ve fixed that problem by remodeling all of the D-Bot parts to allow clearance for the T-nuts.
That’s handy to know I did buy a small qauntity of the proper drop in T nuts, they are actually pretty good. I also bought some square nuts there ok they do the job. I just ordered a load of gt2 pulleys from banggood never even thought to look for the nuts on there.
