I am surprised that using a Sense didn’t put you off Cubify products immediately!
Speed of the Cube 3 is still an issue especially when printing in two colours. It seems to only heat one extruder at a time so swapping between colours takes some considerable time, similar to Cube Pro. The stock print of a two colour number which is about 80mm in Z height has been running over night as it is a 9 hour print. I will attempt to tag the result onto a post later.
I have a cube 3 printer. It pumps out high quality prints at an expensive material cost. It is an extremely easy machine to use and needs very little maintenance.
I have a Cubex The Printer Quality It’s good, But Filament Cartidges are very expensive, hope Cubify take lower price for Catridges soon…
I’ve got a cube trio and because of the high cartridge price I’m rebuilding the machine using the mechanics as a Base with new electronics. I hope this wil work …
If you do, will you post instructions for others on how to do the same thing? We are running into the same problem - great “bones” but less than idea control system.
I’ll post how to do this rebuild in time
Hi LeMonde,Thanks for sharing. May I know about the post processing of these models? If any…
No post processing. The purpose of this photo was to show bad results with CubePro printer
There is a thread on simplify3d where someone gives detail on the arduino he made to control his cubepro and avoid using original cartridges https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2067&sid=a4c847876f1e8f3b04c3dc26b70f0b07&start=50
Unfortunately, I don’t know much about arduino or mechanics but I guess I’ll have to learn if I want to give some use to my useless cube not-so-pro trio
What about the support material? Usage and removal. Can you elaborate on the post processing for that?
Cubepro is a very solid and beautiful machine but it is handicapped by a definitely non pro software. Slicing is truly a problem and support generation is just plain awful, they are impossible to remove. The best trick I have found is printing ABS with PLA supports. I use a rice cooker to dip the model in hot water so pla will melt before abs; an unnecessary process with a decent slicer. If you haven’t purchased one already, I strongly suggest you to look for other printer options.
Now offered is a water dissolvable support material for the CubePro called INF or Infinity. Used with PLA
I have been trying to print a “fusion 360 .stl model” with my Cube3 but I don’t understand what goes wrong if it is the printing values when exporting or the settings used before printing but the model has a melting look, not precise or smooth, probably too much filament used or the printers temperature is not right. Can someone check on my pictures and perhaps advise on what setting might be wrong before printing? thanks.
Hi Jerommeke
I have just joined the Hub, I also have a Cubepro and I am not happy.
I should have done more research prior to purchasing the thing…
Have you had any success with your rebuilding?
Regards
Mike
Hack devices for all printers from Cubify, Cube, CubeX, CubePro … www.cube3dfree.com 1 … worldwide products
i agree this is a great printer but how do you solve the jamming in the nozzle my printer has been crippled with it and i end up wasting alot of filament
love this printer but i keep getting jams in mid print does anyone have any suggestions?
Hi Josh, don’t know if you got an answer to your question, but I just recently purchased a Cube 3 and with the limited amount of printing I’ve done I find the printer extremely reliable printing @ 200 microns. It does a really nice job at that setting too. I tried one part at 70 microns and after it printed the first layer or two it jammed. Today I pprinted a raspberry pi case both top and bottom on same print. It covered the whole print bed (thought I’d give it a challenge). Printed in ABS and outside of it curling up on one corner it printed fine (200 microns of course). It curled pretty bad but remarkably the case is still usable. I am pretty impressed with this printer especially since I bought it for $180. I will do some more experimenting at 70 micron to see if I can get it to print, but I recommend using 200 unless you have to have @70.
I just bought mine Sunday. I’ve ran 25% of my filament already (2 cartridges) and haven’t had major issues. Definitely NO jamming on 200 or 70 microns. I’m having issues with gaps being left inbetween layers.
Have you checked your z gap? I have two of these printers and have learned not to trust auto. Every time I change a cartridge I rest it manually. Use the mylar strip that came with the printer. There should be slight drag nozzle when you slide the strip back and forth under it. I have yet to experience what I see in the pic and think z gap might be too high
Rick I have adjust and adjusted and adjusted the z-gap. This is a random occurring issue. It’s to the point I check the z-gap before every print. Since you have a few of these how do you add supports into it?
I haven’t used support very much but when I have I just turned them on in the software. Does weird stuff as far as choosing where to put them. I’ve read about people using kisslicer to add support but I haven’t gone there yet. I am in the process of trying the filament hack to use standard filament rolls
Ha! That’s funny that you believe it is a flaw. I printed it and got the same thing and after close examination it looked to be an arrow. I asked family members what they though and they felt it could be. I went to the benchy website to see if that was a feature they mentioned and I couldn’t find it so maybe it is just messed up. I am at work right now but I post a pic of mine when I get home.
If you get it working (filament hack) please let me know what you did and how you did it.
I’ll do that. I just found this on the kisslicer forum Cube (3rd Gen)??? - kisslicertalk.com 1
Now available chip reseter for CubePro and CubeX … no connections to printer required … www.cube3dfree.com
I use the cube 3
