love this printer but i keep getting jams in mid print does anyone have any suggestions?

Hi Josh, don’t know if you got an answer to your question, but I just recently purchased a Cube 3 and with the limited amount of printing I’ve done I find the printer extremely reliable printing @ 200 microns. It does a really nice job at that setting too. I tried one part at 70 microns and after it printed the first layer or two it jammed. Today I pprinted a raspberry pi case both top and bottom on same print. It covered the whole print bed (thought I’d give it a challenge). Printed in ABS and outside of it curling up on one corner it printed fine (200 microns of course). It curled pretty bad but remarkably the case is still usable. I am pretty impressed with this printer especially since I bought it for $180. I will do some more experimenting at 70 micron to see if I can get it to print, but I recommend using 200 unless you have to have @70.

Did you ever build the cube ultimaker?

I just bought mine Sunday. I’ve ran 25% of my filament already (2 cartridges) and haven’t had major issues. Definitely NO jamming on 200 or 70 microns. I’m having issues with gaps being left inbetween layers.

Question - are you referring to gaps in height or on a specific layer? The reason I ask is because I have seen where the infill doesn’t come up to touch a feature. So say for instance I have a circle, the fill up to that circle doesn’t connect. I have yet to see any gaps in height from layer to layer. This is where pictures help to understand

It’s spaced in the layers I assume. (I’m a noob)

Have you checked your z gap? I have two of these printers and have learned not to trust auto. Every time I change a cartridge I rest it manually. Use the mylar strip that came with the printer. There should be slight drag nozzle when you slide the strip back and forth under it. I have yet to experience what I see in the pic and think z gap might be too high

Rick I have adjust and adjusted and adjusted the z-gap. This is a random occurring issue. It’s to the point I check the z-gap before every print. Since you have a few of these how do you add supports into it?

I haven’t used support very much but when I have I just turned them on in the software. Does weird stuff as far as choosing where to put them. I’ve read about people using kisslicer to add support but I haven’t gone there yet. I am in the process of trying the filament hack to use standard filament rolls

Rick here’s a picture of that binky boat or what ever it is people like to print. My smoke stack is a little messed up.

Ha! That’s funny that you believe it is a flaw. I printed it and got the same thing and after close examination it looked to be an arrow. I asked family members what they though and they felt it could be. I went to the benchy website to see if that was a feature they mentioned and I couldn’t find it so maybe it is just messed up. I am at work right now but I post a pic of mine when I get home.

If you get it working (filament hack) please let me know what you did and how you did it.

I’ll do that. I just found this on the kisslicer forum Cube (3rd Gen)??? - kisslicertalk.com

Spencer, here is a pic of my benchy. Hard to show in red filament

Now available chip reseter for CubePro and CubeX … no connections to printer required … www.cube3dfree.com

I use the cube 3

Soon we will have a low cost solution for Cube 3 …

Be careful about purchasing this expensive device. With all the research I have done I have yet to find anyone who has purchased it and is using it successfully. I have read a lot of warnings about it tho

I agree, everybody must be careful. We have customers using the devices on more than 46 countries since 3 Years ago. If someone would like to purchase just tell us your location, we will forward 3 customers close to you using the devices.

Another comment, there are many false supposed feedbacks from customers planted by 3DS, by a simple reason, they still want to sell the stock of plastic with price of gold, so if people become afraid, increase these evil sales