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Aug 2015

Besides the expensive price tag of the Cube printers (I own a CubePro Duo) and was curious if anyone else out there has also had new cartridges with unreadable/ unrecognizable chips in them? I’ve only had this happen with 2 of the 3 black PLA cartridges I’ve bought. No matter how sure I am that the new cartridge is positively seated to the reader, I continue seeing the “Not installed” status for the bay these cartridges are in. I’ve tried loading them in the secondary bay with the same results. All of my other new and used cartridges all are recognized and read properly, except for these brand new black PLA cartridges.

I’ve got RMA numbers for returning them, however I was wondering if anyone else here has had this experience, and possibly even found a way to remedy it….

I own a trio and so far I haven’t had any problems with the cartridges except that they are overpriced. I have talked to many people that are trying to hack their printers either because they want to use bulk filament (like myself) or because their chips are not readable and don’t want to wait another several weeks to get new ones. From what I know, they end up returning them…

20 days later
17 days later
3 months later
2 months later

No post processing. The purpose of this photo was to show bad results with CubePro printer

Cubepro is a very solid and beautiful machine but it is handicapped by a definitely non pro software. Slicing is truly a problem and support generation is just plain awful, they are impossible to remove. The best trick I have found is printing ABS with PLA supports. I use a rice cooker to dip the model in hot water so pla will melt before abs; an unnecessary process with a decent slicer. If you haven’t purchased one already, I strongly suggest you to look for other printer options.

Now offered is a water dissolvable support material for the CubePro called INF or Infinity. Used with PLA

12 days later

I have been trying to print a “fusion 360 .stl model” with my Cube3 but I don’t understand what goes wrong if it is the printing values when exporting or the settings used before printing but the model has a melting look, not precise or smooth, probably too much filament used or the printers temperature is not right. Can someone check on my pictures and perhaps advise on what setting might be wrong before printing? thanks.

10 months later

Hi Jerommeke

I have just joined the Hub, I also have a Cubepro and I am not happy.

I should have done more research prior to purchasing the thing…

Have you had any success with your rebuilding?

Regards

Mike

27 days later
2 months later

i agree this is a great printer but how do you solve the jamming in the nozzle my printer has been crippled with it and i end up wasting alot of filament

love this printer but i keep getting jams in mid print does anyone have any suggestions?

19 days later

Hi Josh, don’t know if you got an answer to your question, but I just recently purchased a Cube 3 and with the limited amount of printing I’ve done I find the printer extremely reliable printing @ 200 microns. It does a really nice job at that setting too. I tried one part at 70 microns and after it printed the first layer or two it jammed. Today I pprinted a raspberry pi case both top and bottom on same print. It covered the whole print bed (thought I’d give it a challenge). Printed in ABS and outside of it curling up on one corner it printed fine (200 microns of course). It curled pretty bad but remarkably the case is still usable. I am pretty impressed with this printer especially since I bought it for $180. I will do some more experimenting at 70 micron to see if I can get it to print, but I recommend using 200 unless you have to have @70.

1 month later
2 months later

I just bought mine Sunday. I’ve ran 25% of my filament already (2 cartridges) and haven’t had major issues. Definitely NO jamming on 200 or 70 microns. I’m having issues with gaps being left inbetween layers.

Question - are you referring to gaps in height or on a specific layer? The reason I ask is because I have seen where the infill doesn’t come up to touch a feature. So say for instance I have a circle, the fill up to that circle doesn’t connect. I have yet to see any gaps in height from layer to layer. This is where pictures help to understand

Have you checked your z gap? I have two of these printers and have learned not to trust auto. Every time I change a cartridge I rest it manually. Use the mylar strip that came with the printer. There should be slight drag nozzle when you slide the strip back and forth under it. I have yet to experience what I see in the pic and think z gap might be too high

Rick I have adjust and adjusted and adjusted the z-gap. This is a random occurring issue. It’s to the point I check the z-gap before every print. Since you have a few of these how do you add supports into it?

I haven’t used support very much but when I have I just turned them on in the software. Does weird stuff as far as choosing where to put them. I’ve read about people using kisslicer to add support but I haven’t gone there yet. I am in the process of trying the filament hack to use standard filament rolls

Ha! That’s funny that you believe it is a flaw. I printed it and got the same thing and after close examination it looked to be an arrow. I asked family members what they though and they felt it could be. I went to the benchy website to see if that was a feature they mentioned and I couldn’t find it so maybe it is just messed up. I am at work right now but I post a pic of mine when I get home.

If you get it working (filament hack) please let me know what you did and how you did it.