There is a thread on simplify3d where someone gives detail on the arduino he made to control his cubepro and avoid using original cartridges https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2067&sid=a4c847876f1e8f3b04c3dc26b70f0b07&start=50
Unfortunately, I don’t know much about arduino or mechanics but I guess I’ll have to learn if I want to give some use to my useless cube not-so-pro trio
What about the support material? Usage and removal. Can you elaborate on the post processing for that?
love this printer but i keep getting jams in mid print does anyone have any suggestions?
Hi Josh, don’t know if you got an answer to your question, but I just recently purchased a Cube 3 and with the limited amount of printing I’ve done I find the printer extremely reliable printing @ 200 microns. It does a really nice job at that setting too. I tried one part at 70 microns and after it printed the first layer or two it jammed. Today I pprinted a raspberry pi case both top and bottom on same print. It covered the whole print bed (thought I’d give it a challenge). Printed in ABS and outside of it curling up on one corner it printed fine (200 microns of course). It curled pretty bad but remarkably the case is still usable. I am pretty impressed with this printer especially since I bought it for $180. I will do some more experimenting at 70 micron to see if I can get it to print, but I recommend using 200 unless you have to have @70.
I just bought mine Sunday. I’ve ran 25% of my filament already (2 cartridges) and haven’t had major issues. Definitely NO jamming on 200 or 70 microns. I’m having issues with gaps being left inbetween layers.
Question - are you referring to gaps in height or on a specific layer? The reason I ask is because I have seen where the infill doesn’t come up to touch a feature. So say for instance I have a circle, the fill up to that circle doesn’t connect. I have yet to see any gaps in height from layer to layer. This is where pictures help to understand
Have you checked your z gap? I have two of these printers and have learned not to trust auto. Every time I change a cartridge I rest it manually. Use the mylar strip that came with the printer. There should be slight drag nozzle when you slide the strip back and forth under it. I have yet to experience what I see in the pic and think z gap might be too high
Rick I have adjust and adjusted and adjusted the z-gap. This is a random occurring issue. It’s to the point I check the z-gap before every print. Since you have a few of these how do you add supports into it?
I haven’t used support very much but when I have I just turned them on in the software. Does weird stuff as far as choosing where to put them. I’ve read about people using kisslicer to add support but I haven’t gone there yet. I am in the process of trying the filament hack to use standard filament rolls
Ha! That’s funny that you believe it is a flaw. I printed it and got the same thing and after close examination it looked to be an arrow. I asked family members what they though and they felt it could be. I went to the benchy website to see if that was a feature they mentioned and I couldn’t find it so maybe it is just messed up. I am at work right now but I post a pic of mine when I get home.
If you get it working (filament hack) please let me know what you did and how you did it.
I’ll do that. I just found this on the kisslicer forum Cube (3rd Gen)??? - kisslicertalk.com 1
Now available chip reseter for CubePro and CubeX … no connections to printer required … www.cube3dfree.com
I use the cube 3
Soon we will have a low cost solution for Cube 3 …
Be careful about purchasing this expensive device. With all the research I have done I have yet to find anyone who has purchased it and is using it successfully. I have read a lot of warnings about it tho
I agree, everybody must be careful. We have customers using the devices on more than 46 countries since 3 Years ago. If someone would like to purchase just tell us your location, we will forward 3 customers close to you using the devices.
Another comment, there are many false supposed feedbacks from customers planted by 3DS, by a simple reason, they still want to sell the stock of plastic with price of gold, so if people become afraid, increase these evil sales
So the last comment, all the sales are by PayPal, what gives 100% moneyback warranty … so very strange, 3 Years, 46 countries, the devices don’t work ? afffff
I want nothing more than to find a lesser expensive option - I own two cube 3’s. But I do not want to throw that much money at something only to find it doesn’t work. So based on that I need some level of comfort that it really does work, and after looking a bunch I am not even close to being there.
I’m just saying I am looking for evidence from other 3D systems printer owners that they are using your device and are happy with it. I cannot find any.
You will find on the net angry people or false information. Satisfied people just use and be happy, don’t think to post affff
We are developing a low cost solution, so ASAP I will let you know … thanks
How far off are we? Cube3 users are ready to ditch the system and move on and not wait
I know that the time is a problem, but the intention to put an encrypted chip to make the printer slave of the original cartridges is to delay the bypass system
Hi josh, are you trying to print the original files that came with the USB stick? Make sure they are good because they were sent out wrong from the factory
Spencer, I sucessfully completed the filament hack last week. Using an empty modified cartridge to feed the standard filament and a 1-3% full cartridge for tricking the printer. I have a video that I will post maybe this week, but to give you the process so you can try yourself here it is:
1. Insert the 1-3% cartridge and start a print (1-3% is important because the printer will notify that there isnt enough filament to finish the job)
2. Select the checkmark to proceed
3. When the screen says apply glue, remove the cartridge and replace with the hacked cartridge. (dont forget the glue)
4. Select checkmark to proceed (the printer will begin the heatup process and begin the print)
Important to remeber:
1-3% cartridge, hacked cartridge and standard filament all need to be the same material- PLA for instance.
There are a few different ways people have hacked the cartridge, but I chose the simple way. Drill a hole near the bottom of the cartridge at an angle (toward the extruder). This is so you can feed the teflon tube that guides the filament to the extruder thru the cartridge casing (cartridge does come apart for access to the teflon tube which you already know if youve had to fix a jam). Feed the standard filament into this tube up thru the extruder and to the hot end. You will need a spool holder for the standard filament.
One thing I do not know yet is how different colors act. I say this because I was charting temps on the 3D systems filament and they seem to vary a bit and also ran at higher temps than typical. The standard PLA I ran though was right in the middle of the manufacturers recommended temp range, so I was happy about that. I used Inland Neon Green.
Hopefully the video will help clarify if necessary, but feel free to ask questiion if needed.
Rick I’ve been doing this however I seem to still get a countdown on the “second” cartridge.
Email me me so we can chat a little easier.
