Turn your fan off for the first layer and slow your print speed for the first couple of layers, maybe consider turning your hot end temperature up
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I’ll try that as well i am sure that is the issue
Hey, LambdaFF, as AutonomousAlex eluded to it below - the Printrbot’s use an imperial screw for the Z axis, and as such the stepper motors can’t hold at rounded ‘metric’ values as each layer builds. This rounding error is cancelled out over multiple layers so any finished part is dimensionally accurate, but you can get a tiny squished-stretched pattern over the z axis walls which matches the screw pitch similar to z-wobble.
This banding is very subtle but I have stopped using metric layer heights (0.1,0.2,0.3 etc) for resolution and use multiples of 0.1032mm along with adjustments in my Marlin Z stepper motor config and my print quality for my vertical walls has improved drastically!
This however, is probably not what is occurring here! 
Steve
Yes I know I’ve remembered I changed stock fan for a noctua brand 40mm premium fan and I let settings to start fan at 100% on . 0 but I also need to set the print hight at .2mm and readjust my print speeds and such
I have the same printer, and this looks almost entirely like an issue with z height calibration.
This is for the simple, but everything will work the same on the plus (slightly different if you have the dual extruder model)
also on a unrelated note, I would recommend upgrading from the kapton tape to buildtak, it helps a lot. And it’s hard to find build platforms that come in 10"x10", but buildtak does. Makes the first layer drastically more simple, but you still need the right z offset.
No my z offset is fine
Any chance you might have the temp too low?
It’s not the offset and I’ll recheck all my settings because my past prints did not have this issue only when I changed my cooling fan and yes I’ve been playing with temps
It is most defienentely the offset as the offset needs to be updated every now and then espescially after installing new components on the y axis gantry
Guess I’ll have to take my time to do it on my day off I’ve never done a calibration
Generally doesn’t take to long, worst case is about an hour. Just A FYI
I’ll print a test print to show my layering I’ve not seen any deformation in the past I’ve seen it on the second layer get wavy
Looks like a huge print - have you tried to repair?
As its on the base, and out of sight, you could try a few things. I would suggest trying a heated finishing tool, and perhaps more radically heating an old baking sheet in the oven (dont put the print in there!) and then remove it from the oven and place your print on it, allowing it to cool completely before removing it. The sheet should flex a little to help with removing the print, once cold.
As for causes, theres been a lot of replies already. I dont see any mention of a potential cold spot on the heated bed, might be worth checking with an ir heat gun.
good luck
Well for the conclusion is the z height because the second layer does not stick very well to inicial layer but over all the entire print comes out fine I think the z is off by - 1 after I changed the hotend because I got a replacement about a week ago and just noticed this happen now I’ve not changed the z hight because ive not have chance I’ve been busy but it has to be that I’ve tried printing at 2mm and changed other settings for printing and still same problem
I’ve checked possible problems that a bad z hight can cause but am not in the picture idk
I agree that the first layer setting are very heavy. It is close to the max capacity of an extruder. It will probably not melt the plastic quick enough. Resulting in cooler plastic being deposited and maybe even more resistance resulting in missed steps or slipping filamentresulting in less plastic than calculated by the firmware. So lines do not touch and/or are not hot enough to fuse together.
Ah so you think my temp. Is to low I’ve been using maker geeks and pla is needed at 230 and I’ve been trying 200-210 so I’ll try that
No, I think you should decrease bottom layer Line width to 100% and bottom layer thickness to 0.2mm. You will extrude less than half the volume per time unit which is easier to heat up consistantly.
I get problems when set to 100
I run my printrbot 1405 with 200% line with with a ubis 13s hotend with no problem but I have to agree espescially if you dont have the new printbot hotend to turn that down to 150% at least.
You can keep it at 200 or 150 then change the layer height to the first layer at .254 then the layer hight at .2064 as these values are calculated from the prusa calculator.
I just set it to 100% at 2mm inicial layer at. 2mm print and got this… I appreciate you guys input but all the help I am getting here is the only help I’ve gotten oh and to add I think the layer hight might be to high not really sure takes a wile for filament to stick but I’ll increase the width to 150%
1) Cool the printer.
2) Start the table leveling function.
3) See how many thicknesses of computer printing paper you can get between the print head / nozzle and the print bed.
4) Report back to us the number of layers of paper you can get between the head and build surface
To me it appears to be a gross error in the head to build surface distance.
Also the filament is too cool and the material already printed is cooling too much before the next layer is applied.
Add 20 deg C to filament temperature after you have adjusted the build table height to be correct.
Clean build surface with alcohol before starting next print.
Z height needs to be lowered by about -.25 mm also try moving the z probe closer to the hotend nozzle by screwing it down some as it gets better measurements this way.
The prove is all the way down as far as the screw end goes and the z height is a - 0.9 and yes I will do small increments with the width at 100% correct?
No you can keep it at 150% and printrbot does not advise going past -1 for the z probe so if you end up having to go over you will need to lower the probe.
Sorry for cursing but you fucking got it the probe was to dam. High I do remember when I got the printer I tighten it were it was not thinking off the issues it could cause I am still playing with it but I left the 150% and lowered the probe a little bit I did scratch the bed and ripped my kapton tape on first run got but got a nice test print tell. Me what you think it’s a lot. Better than how I was printing in the past I will adjust the probe if I have to it has slight warp only because I removed it wile it was hot but now we know its the probe any other things I can check to improve if need be let me know
