Turn your fan off for the first layer and slow your print speed for the first couple of layers, maybe consider turning your hot end temperature up
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I’ll try that as well i am sure that is the issue
Hey, LambdaFF, as AutonomousAlex eluded to it below - the Printrbot’s use an imperial screw for the Z axis, and as such the stepper motors can’t hold at rounded ‘metric’ values as each layer builds. This rounding error is cancelled out over multiple layers so any finished part is dimensionally accurate, but you can get a tiny squished-stretched pattern over the z axis walls which matches the screw pitch similar to z-wobble.
This banding is very subtle but I have stopped using metric layer heights (0.1,0.2,0.3 etc) for resolution and use multiples of 0.1032mm along with adjustments in my Marlin Z stepper motor config and my print quality for my vertical walls has improved drastically!
This however, is probably not what is occurring here!
Steve
Yes I know I’ve remembered I changed stock fan for a noctua brand 40mm premium fan and I let settings to start fan at 100% on . 0 but I also need to set the print hight at .2mm and readjust my print speeds and such
I have the same printer, and this looks almost entirely like an issue with z height calibration.
This is for the simple, but everything will work the same on the plus (slightly different if you have the dual extruder model)
https://printrbot.dozuki.com/Guide/4.+Using+Cura+to+Set+Up+the+Auto-Leveling+Probe+on+Your+Printrbot+Simple/190
also on a unrelated note, I would recommend upgrading from the kapton tape to buildtak, it helps a lot. And it’s hard to find build platforms that come in 10"x10", but buildtak does. Makes the first layer drastically more simple, but you still need the right z offset.
Any chance you might have the temp too low?
It’s not the offset and I’ll recheck all my settings because my past prints did not have this issue only when I changed my cooling fan and yes I’ve been playing with temps
It is most defienentely the offset as the offset needs to be updated every now and then espescially after installing new components on the y axis gantry
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Guess I’ll have to take my time to do it on my day off I’ve never done a calibration
Generally doesn’t take to long, worst case is about an hour. Just A FYI
I’ll print a test print to show my layering I’ve not seen any deformation in the past I’ve seen it on the second layer get wavy
Sra1
May 11, 2016, 5:10pm
33
Looks like a huge print - have you tried to repair?
As its on the base, and out of sight, you could try a few things. I would suggest trying a heated finishing tool, and perhaps more radically heating an old baking sheet in the oven (dont put the print in there!) and then remove it from the oven and place your print on it, allowing it to cool completely before removing it. The sheet should flex a little to help with removing the print, once cold.
As for causes, theres been a lot of replies already. I dont see any mention of a potential cold spot on the heated bed, might be worth checking with an ir heat gun.
good luck
Well for the conclusion is the z height because the second layer does not stick very well to inicial layer but over all the entire print comes out fine I think the z is off by - 1 after I changed the hotend because I got a replacement about a week ago and just noticed this happen now I’ve not changed the z hight because ive not have chance I’ve been busy but it has to be that I’ve tried printing at 2mm and changed other settings for printing and still same problem
I’ve checked possible problems that a bad z hight can cause but am not in the picture idk
R2Dd2
May 11, 2016, 6:00pm
36
I agree that the first layer setting are very heavy. It is close to the max capacity of an extruder. It will probably not melt the plastic quick enough. Resulting in cooler plastic being deposited and maybe even more resistance resulting in missed steps or slipping filamentresulting in less plastic than calculated by the firmware. So lines do not touch and/or are not hot enough to fuse together.
Ah so you think my temp. Is to low I’ve been using maker geeks and pla is needed at 230 and I’ve been trying 200-210 so I’ll try that
R2Dd2
May 11, 2016, 8:01pm
38
No, I think you should decrease bottom layer Line width to 100% and bottom layer thickness to 0.2mm. You will extrude less than half the volume per time unit which is easier to heat up consistantly.
I get problems when set to 100
Ok this is the settings I am using now like everyone told me to change and this is what happens special when I change the width from 200 to 100 so I guess the z hight is off but why when I use 200 inicial layer it’s fine
