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Oh Wow, Ive not seen that before!
Im running a Mac and haven’t had that problem, all the software has installed just fine which is strange.
I assume you’ve tried to uninstall and reinstall the software?
I have actually managed to print a couple of items the first being a “simple light house” it was after that first light house that i started to experience all my problems!
I have spent atleast 50 hours so far sending things to print on a trial and error basis, so i f you do ever get the software running and need a hand with fine-tuning for a print feel free to ask questions as theres no point in you wasting your life the same as i have. you’ll almost definitely run into the same problems as me!
Well I have been printing with this printer, and this is my conclusion.
Firstly replace the PCB board that goes on the print be for some 3 mm Aluminium better heat spread.
Secondly Strip the electronics out and replace with 3D Printer Controller RAMPS 1.4 + Mega 2560 R3
This will enable one to use Repetier Host and Slicer-3. Also using the Marlin firmware
This will also enable sd card printing plus has better support.
Yes I know its more cash but at £33 its worth the outlay.
I’m assuming you have done this? If so could you provide us with some photos of the the new boards in place? This will help assist in me giving it a go my self!
Hi I have not as yet done this, but looking at a reprap clone and understanding electronics it would not be an issue.
I have a manual for a CTC 3d printer and it is very basic plug in to set up and go. all I would advise at this time is watch you tube video’s on how to build a 3d printer. As for do I mod this printer I’m in two minds about it, especially when you can build one off the shelf with a larger bed for £130. The way I’m thinking after looking at a custom build on youtube, and some research on heat beds I could build a printer with a heat bed of 25" X 13" for less than the overall cost of this printer.
here is the link for the first video if interested. New 3D Printer Parts - YouTube
Hi Jacob,
I am very interested in joining you and other’s who, would like to get their money back.
I have sent them an email warning them that, I intend to take legal action, as is laid out by the County Court proceedings.
I am not satisfied with their replies and feel extremely betrayed by Eaglemoss and Dbfactory passing the parcel to each other.
They’re a disgrace and would like to inflict harm on them, to the value of the subscription.
Without using expletives and trying to keep calm; many bodies around one voice would suffice.
Kind Regards
Andrew
Looking at the picture the belts are too slack and need to be tighter. If they are tight then slow the printer down.
I have this printer which to be honest is very poor, and a CTC PRUSA I3 clone. i will print that lighthouse on the CTC so you can do a comparison. The cost of the CTC is around £160.
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Your right. However that was on quick settings. I printed a model on the fine settings and got got this result
Where do I sign up?
Tried installing the ‘update’ and now all I get is a green light on the front of the oversized paperweight and the fans going.
I have spent 2 days so far trying to uninstall and reinstall, defrag, restart, still nothing!
I have removed the top covers and all the connections are fine.
In the Config tab I can go to manual config and then connect, it then changes status to idle, short pause then hangs on ‘4 command waiting’ hangs for a while more then gives the error message that it cant connect to the printer. The light on the front of the printer is green but doesnt do anything when i press it.
I was really looking forward to printing but alas it doesnt look like its going to happen.
Barry
You need to hold the safety switch on the right hand side by the v3 emblem if u look in the hole at the side of it you will see a switch iv rested a marker pen on it it will kick in then
Hi Barry,
there might be a couple of things you are missing in the process here.
firstly, have you completed the build?
try doing this if you haven’t already, turn on the printer at the back using the red switch, open up the V3 software
and open up the manual control as you have been doing.
as soon as you have clicked connect, are you making sure you have pressed down the hood limit switch? as the printer is designed to not connect unless its safety screen is down. ( you also need to tick the “disable hood limit switch” in the settings before all this)
feel free to contact my email jakerhp22@gmail.com where i can send pics of specific parts to go with what I’m trying to explain.
Ive spent some serious man hours attempting to perfect the printer and as far as I’m concerned, i have got it working as well as it will. as you can see in the pic, this is the best print I’ve had so far.
And once connected, you can release the switch!
I too would like a refund as i am quite frankly disappointed with what we have been given.
However I am totally unsure of what direction to go in as i have already been refused a refund by eagle moss!
WARNING!
Anyone who has received that extra fan in issue 91 to cool the filament as it prints…
It might only be me but i installed it, and unfortunately figured out the fan nozzle sat below the printer nozzle, thus resulting in a big grinding clash when the fan nozzle hit the side of the print bed !!
I thought there was only 90 issues
So did I but if you subscribe via the website it continues and you get extras like in the picture
I think we need to get some sort of partition going it is truly shocking what we end up with and there are so many flaws in the design software that clearly isn’t compatible with Windows 10 etc
I agree. Perhaps somebody could get an email to Sebastian conrad associates via the email in a comment below and cc everyone in. I think there’s 4 of us wanting a refund atm…
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