IT looks like you have a lot of the issues I have. One thing I have noticed is the bed mount to the Z Axis is bent by about 4mm.
The only way I could get the calibration done was to adjust the Z Axis to as close to the bed a poss the mess around with the bed adjustment screws which took an age.
Also in the magazine they mention the feeler is 0.2mm, wrong its 0.1 which is the correct distance from the bed.
This is also the same thickness as a sheet of a4 paper.
Very nicely put. The only extra parts that may be added was the fact that initially stated that the collection would be completed in 90 issues which has now been extended and also that there are a growing number looking to be reimbursed. Barry
Just sent an email to the tech and received automated response that I will be contacted within 24 hrs!
I am keeping all correspondence should it be needed for court action later.
The email reads…
Having phoned earlier I was told that you would be in touch within a few hours.
Obviously I am aware that others seem to be having similar if not the same issues as myself which could explain the long delay in receiving assistance.
Having invested a lot of time and money in this product I must admit that I find the lack of backup service a bit disappointing. I am at the point of completing the build and trying to set it up along side the laptop (recent purchase and running windows 10). The green button on the front of the machine is constant green and all the fans are working but that is it. Connecting to the printer and trying to update the software is not possible as it changes from ‘disconnected’ to ‘idle’ then a pause, after a few seconds I get the message ‘4 commands waiting’ then a longer pause then ‘unable to connect do you want to open the settings to check connection’, have done this several times to find that the comms port is correct with the usb connection. I have disabled them and re enabled, uninstalled and reinstalled, rebooted, checked all wiring connections, tried a different cable.
It seems that the problem is with the boards as all the power lights are working ok from the power, small board (red led) and the print head. The pause button just remains green and does nothing when pressed.
Yesterday I was able to get the board moving and went to calibrate it but found that when raising the bed, according to the test points that it would in fact strike the clip that holds the board in place, but i think that we need to resolve the communication problem first.
I will be available all day Friday 30 Oct to receive your call on either the number that was forwarded to you (01883 371270) or my mobile which is listed below.
Look forward to hearing from you soon.
Barry
(Account PR003261)
I am wondering whether or not we can just print from CURA. There is no obvious match with the printers listed in the latest version of CURA but I read somewhere that the V3 is a port of an existing model.
I have been through very similar problems with both the printer and the customer service.
As described in a reply below, it took them 6 weeks to send out a replacement board, and probably 3 weeks of correspondance before the problem was diagnosed.
Eagle moss truly are terrible.
I wish id checked up on them through trustpilot.com 1 first. the reviews there say it all.
On startup of the printer the print head moves to the far left and vibrates like hell as if it is trying to go further than it can and as for the software it took me 2 days to finally install it after installing different design software and it still won’t send anything to the printer .
That may be a problem with the x-axis limit switch.
Thanks for the info .Still think we need a refund though as still can’t print with it at all lol
Hi Everyone, I just wrote to Eaglemoss and Dbfactory to inform them that, after many promises they had failed me and I am going to stake a claim via the County Court. There’s no template as, everyone’s case is different and we all have various issues with them. Just inform them of your intentions to seek recompense via the County Court. If you send me your problems to my email address andygreyrider@googlemail.com I will draw up a general statement to present at County Court. If you wish to follow my lead. After you have informed both parties of your intended court action, I have been advised to ignore them like they have us. This is likely to panic them into offering as little, as possible to squirm their way out. In the Sales of Goods Act you are advised to give them reasonable time to repair or replace. Then you are free to pursue them through the Courts for a full refund. On the Compensation Element; we are within our rights to claim for Stress and Anxiety, as it is with many financial claims. If it has caused business problems then, you are within your rights to claim for lost business. Under the new Distance Selling Regulations they are in breach of. For supplying faulty software et cetera. I am very experienced in making claims against vendors and a Consumer Champion with many wins! Please get in touch the sooner the better and the sooner you get your money back. I want my money back and to prevent them from hurting other’s! I promise you that no out-of-court settlement will suffice. I have never backed down and have been facing obstacles like this my whole life. Kind Regards Andrew Millard
Hi Andrew
I would be grateful of any assistance I can get to pursue this as the more I see the more I realise that I am not a one off case.
I contacted the ‘support team’ yesterday and received an automated response that they would be in contact within 24 hours (not holding my breath).
My faults so far.
‘pause’ button on the front of the printer stays solid green and does nothing.
I have power (according to the lights) but no control from the lap top I have bypassed the hood switch as directed reset the printer, tried different cables, uninstalled and re installed and disabled and re enabled the ports etc.
When I initially managed to get it to work and raised the print bed I noticed that even if it did work properly that I would not be able to calibrate it as the clip that holds the plate to the bed lines up perfectly with the the nozzle thus not allowing the correct clearance to be achieved.
I am not sure if it is relevant but would like to find out, but I have purchased an Arduino Uno board as suggested on various posts (I am not going to use it in the printer though) and found that the input voltage is recommended to between 7-12v with a maximum of 20v https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno 5 (I can only assume that the board supplied will have similar requirements) however, the power pack supplied to do the testing is rated at 24v.
I am wondering if it is worth starting a new post (linked here) to make it easier to find and keep updated.
Barry
07769871406
Hi Barry,
All the balony about the lid switch is total carp.
You can disable it in the software settings. So, none of this depressing the lid switch.
I need everyone’s story of problems.
Going into your email account and search for Eaglemoss and Dbfactory. You need to forward these to my email address if, you wish to have a class action template.
I am very serious about ‘no contact’ with them once, you have exhausted their chance to correct your problems.
I have had all the emails you are talking about and they can’t tell their R’s from their Elbows. They can’t even communicate effectively internally, either it’s a case of Chinese Whisper’s or you end up repeating yourself.
They are expecting us to give in to their fun and games.
They have sold us a piece of poo, based on the Reprap design and I can assure you, you don’t need a hood to print ABS successfully.
Everything they have commissioned with the Vector 3 is flawed.
If your new filling fell out by the dentist. Would you accept it if they said come back next year or see another dentist?
This is what Eaglemoss and Dbfactory are up to, passing us from pillar to post and back again.
We shouldn’t have to seek out our own fixes. We paid for a product and it’s not fit for purpose. How much anxiety and stress, not forgetting time, have you left?
Would they put up with it?
We want our money back and compensation.
My dear late Uncle, who recently passed away, used to quote ‘the squeaky wheel always gets the oil’ and this what we are ‘the squeaky wheel.’
Kind Regards
Andrew
Hi Everyone,
It is not your duty to fix their mistakes.
If you want to stick with the Vector 3 piece of carp, that’s your prerogative.
If you want to salvage it, it’s a lot of tat for £900.
I cannot twist your arm to join me.
Hopefully, if you do come along for the ride, you were wise enough to keep all correspondence with Eaglemoss and Dbfactory and recorded every telephone conversation.
I personally have taken names, position in company, and digitally recorded every telephone conversation for the last 33 year’s.
I am not like any typical Englishman, letting it slide, I am very much American in that, I complain, claim and offer praise where it’s due.
You’re not alone if you would like redress for any situation. If it’s offered, use it because, you’re guaranteed someone will have their Ten Penneth out of you!
Another option is to go to your bank and ask for a draw back of funds. Banks are very good at this type of thing.
If like me, you paid with a credit card maybe, a claim lodged with them.
There is so much legislation these days geared for consumer rights protection.
Hey! If you don’t ask, you don’t get cliché, nearly always works.
I still want redress through the courts, don’t you?
Kind Regards
Andrew
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I get the same problem with the print head sliding to the left and the bad vibration/drilling noise which I was told by the IT geeks to send photos or a video,not sure what a photo will do lol .My reply to that was even if I did send a video it still won’t fix the software problem .I got a reply today saying they are updating the software soon and they will let me know soon
Hi I have just completed my 3d printer from Eaglemoss It was hard to calibrate but found best to use a larger object rather than the 02mm gauge say 75mm high with the build plate at a lower level then when level raise the plate until reaching the 02mm gap This made it much better to level the plate the only problem I have is the bed plate will not heat I have resolved this problem by getting PLA from Rigid ink. I now get very good results as Rigid ink PLA will stick to a cold bed.
I would add that getting the bed plate level and at the right distance from the extrude is very hard.
Hi i had the same problem but then found i had fitted the brackets on the wrong side instead of between the fan and block this raised the fan blower but the clearance is very small and i did need to bend the brackets a little but all works fine now
Guys I think this is due to the limit switch not being pushed in fully when it moves to the egde
Is anyone having any problems with grub screws coming loose after a few prints? which then causes the printing to go out of line and I wondered if anyone had any solutions for that? I am thinking metal glue
.
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Well i have fixed it by removing the bottom screw of the plastic plate/grip that holds the limit switch in place. Pushinh it as far right as possible and glueing it in place. Its just because its about 1mm out. You can test it by moving the x-axis left and right to make sure the limit switch clicks when it reaches the end
Ive found you can buy grub screws online woth threaded locks to stop them coming undone with vibrations. Im guna give that ago if not threaded lock glue seems the way
I think this is what we are looking for. I have ordered some so I will soon find out.
Still having trouble with the printer and software,the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to and the software still doesn’t tall to the printer so nothing prints.I have emailed both the tech guys and Eaglemoss with very little in the way of a solution and I also tried calling both the v3 customer services and technical help and was on hold for 10 minutes on each so I gave up. A refund is what I want now as it’s turned what I thought would be a good project and product into a large paperweight.Rant over
[post deleted per user request]
Graham, the problem with the damn thing still vibrates as the printer head tries to go further to the left than its supposed to is a problem with the limit switch not being being pressed in fully, I put my fix below. You need to make sure it fully clicks as the print nozzle arm inside the metal case pushes the limit switch down.
If it is fully clicking and being hit every time and not being pushed back away then you will have a problem with the limit switch but either way thats what the limit switch is for and that is the reason, it is there to say " this is the end, stop moving in this direction "
Hi All
I know that some of us are having issues with this printer, however if you do manage to get it to work here are some tips.
Firstly forget the slicing system in the printers software just use it as a way to connect to your printer, send the g_codes.
download
Meshmixer at www.meshmixer.com
Slic3r at http://slic3r.org
Meshlab at http://meshlab.sourceforge.net
Now I use Meshmixer to add the support structure to the Model, Slic3r to generate the g_code then upload with 3d create and print.
now Meshlab I use to convert the sketchup file to stl as sometimes the sketchup plugin fails.
Here are the settings for PLA in Slic3r I use which seem to work.
In Print Settings
Layers & Perimeters
Layer Height 0.2
First layer Height 0.2
Perimeter 3
Solid layers top and bottom 3
Seam position random
Infill
Fill density between 25% and 80% depending how strong you want the Model
Fill Pattern Honeycomb
Top & Bottom Fill pattern Rectilinear
Combine every fill layer 1
Only when needed tick
Solid infill layer 3
Fill angle 45 degrees
Solid infill threshold 70 mm2
Infill before perimeter tick
Skirt And Brim
Loops 4
Distance from object 4
Skirt height 1
Minimum Extrusion length 0
Brim width 0
Support Material
Make sure it is not ticked as you will get better results from Meshmix do look on youtube for tutorials.
Speed
Perimeters 30
Small Perimeters 20
External Perimeters 15
Infill 50
Solid Infill 50
Top Solid Infill 50
Support Material 50
Support Material Interface 60
Bridges 60
Gap Fill 20
Travel 80
First Layer Speed 30
The rest of the settings make sure they are set to 0 except Max Print Speed set to 80
Multiple Extruders
Make sure the settings are set to 1 and the tick boxes are empty
Advanced
Make sure all settings are set to 0 except these settings
First Layer 200%
Infill Perimeter Overlap 20%
Bridge Flow Ratio 1
Threads 2
That’s all the setting for this section
Filament Settings
You need to set that according to the material you are using and the recommended settings**.**
Printer Settings
General
Bed Shape Rectangular
Size 140 X 140
Origin 0 0
Extruders 1
G-Code Flavor RepRap
Pressure Advance 0
Vibration Limit 0
Custom G Codes leave alone
Extruder 1
Nozzel Diameter 0.4
Extruder Offset 0 & 0
Length 1.5
Lift Z 0.5
Speed 20
Extra Length On Restart 0
Minimum travel after retraction 1.5
The two boxes not ticked
Length 10
Extra length on restart 0
This should set you up for printing
When you do load the G-code the printer will tell you the bed is heating , But it will not mention the print head. Just let it run.
Now as for the Printer
That square PCB build plate get shot of it as it is useless.
Get hold of some sheet Aluminum the same size as the PCB. Rough the surface with some 80 grit emery paper.
When you get ready to to print spray the Aluminum with cheap Hair Spray, this will help combat warping.
I have added a Photo of the results.
Do search for tutorials on the software packages I have mentioned, but ultimately get a better printer for half the price we had to pay for this thing.
And guess what you can print with it ad the printer works to build cases to cover the electronics.
No sarcasm intended I done the same within two days of firing this v3 up
I have not been able to connect with the printer using repetier.
