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Is the extruder making a “dunk…dunk…dunk” noise? If so, you have too small a distance between the nozzle and the print bed. Just try putting a half or full turn on all of the bed adjustment knobs in the anti-clockwise direction while the machine is printing to see if you then see an extrusion.
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Barring some sort of electronic glitch, the extruders never reach the ignition temperature of any of the polymers used in FDM printing. Having said that, I have replaced two heat bed connectors on both the Dreamer and the Creator Pro as they were obviously running hot and the connector body was dis…
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Have a look in the device manager and see if theres an entry for Replicator with a exclamation mark. If so try installing the latest makerbot desktop version. Run the installation as administrator to make sure the drivers install correctly then try FlashPrint again. You may hhave to unplug and re-pl…
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Your bed is too hot, reduce temp to 40 deg C for starters. Watch the first layer as it prints, the extrusion should be flattened, to about 100% of the nozzle size (0.4mm flattened to 0.8mm wide) If the print still won’t stick, wipe down the blue sticker with alcohol, methyl or isopropyl. If you have…
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I have has a reasonable number of thermocouples fail on Creator Pros, so that could be your problem. Does the printer display any kind of error message?
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Unfortunately some of the extruder assemblies are delivered this way. We have sold sixty or so Creator Pros and about three have had this issue. The only way to correct this unfortunately, is to strip the extruder assembly down to just the feed tubes and the aluminum block. Once you have it in this …
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This has probably come about by a “hot connection” issue. A hot connection is one with built in resistance caused by insufficient electrical contact. The likely culprit will be a bad crimp on a contact in the connector. I’d advocate clipping the melted connector off and then getting a heavy duty DC …
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As mentioned previously, heat the bed to around 60 degrees C and peel off the old sticker. Get rid of any detatched ahesive, you want the bed spotless before applying the new sticker. After you’ve replaced it, try using UHU glue stick as an adhesion aid. If you’ve ripped up the old bed sticker getti…
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+1 on Micro Swiss, he has a complete kit so that you can convert from PTFE lining to all-metal for the hotend. If you buy the complete kit, you can run your extruders at up to 300 degrees C and print cool stuff like Poly carbonate alloy and other high temp stuff.
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Get some sandpaper, about 180 grit, and give the vinyl bed sticker a good rub down. Afterwards, wipe the surface off with a damp cloth and switch the bed heat on to dry it. After this treatment, your prints should stick if you have your bed calibration correct. A good hint here is that the first lay…
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A picture would be a good idea
I’ve run into this kind of issue myself and if it’s consistent between prints the issue is probably with the slicer and the limitations of the nozzle size. The slicer has to calculate what it can and can’t print and with some forms like small features or tapering feat… -
230 is too hot for CopperFill. I have had fine results with 210, maybe go to 220. Obviously the chair needs support but another poster stated that already. As far as polishing goes, I use a soft steel pot scrubber which looks like a ball of swarf (like you get when a lathe cuts metal) The steel is f…
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440 would juuust fit in my DH02 printer. The bed is 250x250 so that’s not an issue. I’m not sure about your target price though. I’d have to see the model to do the calculations. Cheers Ben
