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You didn’t send the OBJ, but it looks to me like you’ve got some flipped normals there. Not sure how to correct it in 3DSMax, but if you have Windows10 you can open it in 3DBuilder and, if it gives you a warning, run the corrective feature, re-save and try again. If you don’t have windows10 you can …
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Obviously the problem is your feed system. Either the toothed gear is stripped in parts and needs to be replaced, the motor isn’t connected well, or there’s something wrong with the stepper motor on the feed system. The feed system is fairly simple, so there’s not much to check.
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Sounds to me like a deformed nozzle. Try switching for another and see if that makes the problem go away.
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Well, I was trying for clever. Picture is worth 1000 words, but the words were just “blah blah blah”. Get it? I was saying the picture didn’t convey what it needed to. Sometimes I’m not as clever as I think I am. I’ve apparently never experienced a bent rod causing drag before. But you say it’s off…
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I’m sorry you though I was being smug. I just didn’t know what the term “cateye” means. But it is possible you’ve been at this longer than I. You’re only coming here asking for help. Sorry I wanted you to be clear about it. I’ve seen corner ringing from backlash, those sort of echos that occur when…
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What’s “cat-eye” mean. Listen, normally a picture is worth 1000 words, but you’ve already pasted a picture and all I’m hearing is “blah blah blah”. Can you post a picture of the print? Also, what type of Makerbot are you using?
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I’m arguing the devil here, but availability isn’t really a compelling reason for someone to jump in here. 3D printing will always be second fiddle to traditional manufacturing when it comes to producing large units of a thing for the masses. Sure, anyone with a 3D printer could do this, but why wou…
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Not to, uh, niggle, but you’re hardly the first person to 3D print war gaming miniatures, even a whole set of them. And you’re not the first 3D printed war game ever. I’ve got Wood Wars 3D in before you on that one, though after a failed kickstarter I haven’t done much with it. So what is 3D printi…
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That’s your retort? That’s a great come back for a 5 year old, but that sort of behavior, ignoring everything a person says and replying with a single word… don’t do that.
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So help fix it. They’re asking for help, so let’s mold this into something useful for everyone. You’re coming at this from a place of mistrust and negativity. That helps no one. Are they trying to sell stuff? Yes. In fact I would hope so. If they weren’t trying to sell something their resources will…
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You know, if you believe in a company there’s nothing wrong with supporting them, especially when they’re generating content that will help everyone. Let’s not be so negative, that only hurts us.
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Woah, “Use Ctr+F and paste one of the terms below to search for it”? Do you hate your users? Got something against links to anchor points? In fact you should be linking to words that you use when defining words. You’re making this to help new users learn, don’t start off by making them work for it. …
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my process for taking a 2D image and turning it into 3D is to scan the drawing (which can be done with a camera), then load it into inkscape, trace the image to get a line, isolate a single trace, delete the rest. save the SVG and import it into Blender to extrude it and do other modeling.
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For software for mightboard based machines you basically have 2 options: Makerbot Desktop or Simplify3D. Simplify3D is by and far the best solution, but it’s an additional $150 and that puts some people off but I say I’ve spent more for upgrades to my printer that did less. You could potentially run…
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That is a sucky work around. But having worked in software I know that unicode will bite you in the butt more times than not. Hope they get this fixed. Probably won’t though.
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You can chip borosilicate glass. i know because I chipped the surface of 3 of them before switching to an aluminum plate with sanded surface. But I also don’t love build tack. It’s got good hold, but lousy release. So far I prefer hair spray directly on my metal build plate.
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I know some versions of Makerbots has trouble with loose wiring. I’d check to be sure all your connections, even into the motheboard, are tight.
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Sorry, you say you’re using a Makerbot and a CTC? Or does the CTC use the Makerbot Desktop software to print? Either way, check your level. It looks like you need to bring the build plate up just a few tenths of a millimeter. EDIT: Oh, yeah. Blue tape and ABS, muy mal. But you can spray it with ha…
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I just bought a big box of it to try it out. It says it’s good for plastic, so, hey, this might work. Tumbled a copperfill print for 24 hours in the stuff and… nothing. Absolutely worthless. So now I have a big box of walnut shells to get rid of.
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Walnut shells? I haven’t heard that one. That tumbles metal? Gonna have to give that a try.
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In my experience they’re actually weaker and more brittle. Used some tungston filled filament and accidently forgot to change my settings. Printed it with 1 shell and it crumbled like eggshell when I put any pressure on it. But it sure looks good.
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Printed a chess set:
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Ah, either I didn’t see the drop down or it wasn’t there on my tablet when I looked.
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As it does, life has led me in a different direction. But when I moved my location it still seems like I’m in the same parent hub. It’s possible I didn’t move far enough, but it seems to me that Vegas, if it had a hub, would be closer to my current location than Salt Lake. Quite frankly I find the w…
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I’m really impressed with the work you’ve put into it so far. Good job. If the temp is going down you’ve put your thermistor wires backwards at the motherboard. Just switch the thermistor wires on the motherboard and it should go fine. Hey, don’t give up after all this. You’re doing great.
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I’m @Cymonsgames on twitter. Not on Instagram yet. Probably should be.
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Well, I wanted to know if there’s an official version of it somewhere that I can reference and if there isn’t already a dual color version. There is, by the way: Marvin Dual Color by jasay - Thingiverse Basically I wanted to check with them, see if they wanted it uploaded, and where.
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So the process involved making solid shapes from the shells that you made wasn’t as straight-forward as I would have liked. Mostly it involved locating the non-manifold edges and extruding them to a solid shape, then capping the hole by filling it in with an N-Gon. When I tried to make one model the…
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I spent way too long on this this morning, and there’s still a small part that isn’t right (see if you can find it), but here you go. See how these models are solid objects with and inside and an outside that nestle into each other? This is the way it has to be to work. Marvin1.stl (198 KB) Marvi…
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Looking at your STLs the problem is obvious. You separated the parts of the mesh, but you didn’t make them solid, manifold objects. Either one of them. You need to close the holes, make them solid objects, and, to make them nestle into each other a little. I’m not sure the steps to do this in Rhino,…
