Metal filled filaments are pure fun :)

[3dpGeek]

These look great! Great pictures too!

Here is a Proto-Pasta Stainless Steel Print and a Filamentive Carbon Fiber I did

[Joerg_4]

brass screws approx. 24 hours and walnut shells for ~24 hours

[en3DStudios_com]

Thanks!

[Joseph_1]

Printed a chess set:

[Joerg_4]

You’re welcome

[Bas_Vd_Elsen]

Are metal filled filaments stronger than normal plastic or is it just for the metal look?

[Joseph_1]

In my experience they’re actually weaker and more brittle. Used some tungston filled filament and accidently forgot to change my settings. Printed it with 1 shell and it crumbled like eggshell when I put any pressure on it.

But it sure looks good.

[Joseph_1]

Walnut shells? I haven’t heard that one. That tumbles metal? Gonna have to give that a try.

[Joerg_4]

Wow this is really cool. Thanks for sharing

[Joerg_4]

It’s just for the look

But the Colorfabb filaments are not (much) weaker than regular PLA.

[Joerg_4]

the nutshells make the surface smoother - in theory

I am not sure if this is really necessary. Sometimes things help, allthough they only exist in your imagination

[imagine3dps]

I heard that any additive that disrupts the “plastic matrix” makes it weaker. So I would imagine that the metal powder just messes with the strength of the plastic. But it sure does look pretty!

[imagine3dps]

Joerg,

What settings did you use to print these little beauties?

[Joerg_4]

yes, correct. That’s why carbon filled filaments are complete nonsense from the technical point of view

A carbon ‘reinforcement’ needs long fibers rather than powder added to the plastics.

So the carbon filled filaments are also only for the look (and weight?) and may be vibration damping but they are weaker than regular PLA.

[flowalistik]

Finally someone that think’s the same as I do!

I’ve tried woodfill, Magnetic Iron and Bronzefill, and those three are weaker than PLA. They look much better, and for stationary designs they are perfect, but for anythin else, go for 100% plastic filaments.

[Joerg_4]

sorry I missed your post.

you can find teh settings above or here: http://printoftheday.colorfabb.com/print-of-the-day/thors-hammer/

[Joseph_1]

I just bought a big box of it to try it out. It says it’s good for plastic, so, hey, this might work. Tumbled a copperfill print for 24 hours in the stuff and… nothing. Absolutely worthless. So now I have a big box of walnut shells to get rid of.

[UVic_3D]

Hey Joerg, Very sick prints man, totally jealous. Quick question if you don’t mind. What type of nozzle did you use? i.e. brass? Stainless Steel? Etc… Would greatly appreciate any info, I’m going to be attempting my first metal prints in the very near future, and any info would help. Cheers, Tim

[Joerg_4]

Hi Tim,

thanks

The nozzle I use is a 0.4mm from 3dsolex.com

The metal filament from colorfabb prints almost like regular PLA. Just pay attention that you don’t print too tiny details.

For Brassfill I always use blue painters tape because it sticks like hell on naked glass - impossible to remove from the glass without destroying the print. The rest is no voodoo - just try it

Cheers,

Joerg

[Joerg_4]

sorry that I missed your reply for some reason.

the idea is to use the walnut shells for the last shine and polish.

so first of all you should use a more abrasive media, like brass screws, ceramic pyramids, etc.
afterwards tumble your parts with walnut shells.

btw: i didn’t mean entire shels - they have to be crushed to small pieces like 3 - 5mm

Hope this helps