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the 1302 didnt have an induction sensor. Do you have a photo of the printer?
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okay, if you aren’t seeing it in Device Manager (or System Report on a Mac), first thing would be to check/change the USB cable. When you try and print from the SD card, make sure the file is named auto0.g (browse to the SD card and make sure it hasnt got a different extension added to it.) Let us…
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Fine tuning any printer can take some playing. I would for this part, increase the infill. The thin walls may suffer some of the calculation issues of trying to fit 20% in nothing… The Z height looks a little high. Run M503 and see what the M212 value is for Z and try making it 0.05 more negative. …
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run M503 and check the M212 value for Z. I’d try making it more negative by 0.1 So it if reads M212 Z-0.3 make it M212 Z-0.4 then M500 to save and M501 to load saved settings Try that Ian
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Hi Alex If you want support, have you tried opening a ticket on the PB support site? If the cable is broken, it will also report as triggered as they are wired as normally closed. Check the wiring and the switch with a meter. You may need to get the soldering iron out!
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it won’t show any signs as the reset is pretty instantaneous. Here’s some docs for flashing depending on Mac or Windows
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Hi Alex What printer is this on? What hot end do you have? Have you tried to reflash the firmware? Ian
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Does this new plate cover the whole of the metal surface? The sensor has a range of 4mm, so if the plate is 4mm, and covers the complete surface, the G29 bed levelling won’t work. Now you can convert the Z stop to a mechanical one. There is a printable switch holder on paste extruder product page …
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open a ticket on the PB support site for Bent Y Arm. Mention my name in the ticket - Ian Lewis and i’ll pick the ticket up.
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where did you get it from and when?
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try a layer height of 0.1984mm and check the belt tension. should be firm, but not overtight. Did you build it or was it already assembled?
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Hi Calvin It’s possible that the set screws in the coupler holding the Z Axis to the motor have started to come lose. This would mean that, occasionally, there may be a bit of slippage on the Z axis. Did you get the printer assembled or did you build it yourself? If the latter, did you use threadlo…
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okay, if this is PLA, you should be using Blue Tape… If it’s ABS, is the bed hot enough? Not directly related, I know, but just to clarify. This looks like the Jr V2 with the Aluminium Extruder upgrade and I have worked with one of these for ages and they’re quite stable. Have you tried different s…
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I am running Ubis hotends that are older than that and, as long as you havent been printing about 245C then the lining should be fine. The layer height looks ‘obvious’, what sort of layer height are you using? It maybe worth cleaning the nozzle? Ian
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Hi Mark You say this is getting more pronounced over time, so I guess we’re looking at a little Wear and Tear here as well as a few other things. I also have a Jr v2 (amongst others) and it’s a good printer when on form. You may want to print something to keep the Z rods from moving as the Z goes …
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Greg The main thing to check with any models you print is to make sure they dont have the non-commercial in the license. If they do, then even with attribution, it’s a no-no! Apart from the materials thing that Marius mentioned, the other cool thing is personalisation. Print off some things with n…
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The bearings should be self lubricating. If you feel they need to be lubricated, then a little light oil or lithium grease, but just a touch - too much will cause other issues.
