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Another thought - 50mm/sec is a bit fast if you are doing .2mm layer height. 0.1mm layer height at 50 is fine but if you are doing .2mm and 50mm/sec I suspect you should try lowering that to maybe 35mm/sec. If you are watching it print and see that characteristic holes-in-the-side of the print as yo…
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The fans on the UM3 have rpm control or something weird. 30% and even 10% on the UM3 is the exact same speed as 100%. Only when you get below 10% does it start to slow down. I would do 3% fan. Or even lower. Start with 3%. It broke half way most likely due to too much fan. So you were getting under…
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As far as raft is concerned - I’d stay away from that. That’s an old technology from before Cura was created and cura doesn’t do it well and we have newer, better technologies. Raft was helpful back in the days before we had heated beds. To get your part to stick to the bed here is a thorough summar…
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Woah. That’s pretty severe underextrusion. Try printing at half whatever speed you are printing at. If you were printing at 260C with the oldest type of Ultimaker with the original teflon that came out a few years ago then it’s probably already time to change to UM’s newer “tfm” teflon which can han…
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Kapton tape is great but not necessary. Better is to use an incredibly thin layer of pva glue (hairspray, wood glue or glue stick). If you use gluestick just apply to 1/3 of the surface area then spread around with a wet tissue to spread it evenly and remove most of it. It should be invisible. Or ne…
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Your primary problem looks like you need more fan. Do the minimum fan where it actually spins. 30% should work well. If you can get the fan to spin consistently at 25% then then that’s good also. 260C is fine if it doesn’t clog. I have gotten clogs at 255C so I usually print cooler. If ABS stays at…
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Yes. Seen it dozens of times on the forum. That was why I said that was the most likely problem 2 months ago.
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I would experiment with only 2 marvins (to speed up the experiments) and go a little thicker layer and go a little slower print speed: 25mm/sec. Overall it should be faster with the thicker layers even though the head moves slower. Those overhangs are tricky. You can also go even lower in temperatur…
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Believe it or not the UM2 and UM3 can do .06mm layer heights with a .4mm nozzle. I recommend people go a bit thicker. I’ve never had the patience for a 50 hour print. But you can do it. You can’t really go much thinner with a .4mm nozzle though because… well I’m not sure why. I think the quality sta…
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I agree that layers aren’t cooling down enough at the top as each layer prints too quickly to give it time to cool. There are many solutions but the best is to print something else next to this part so that print head can go over there and print that. Ideally in a location where the side fans still …
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No!!! The sensor on the heated bed is tough as hell. The sensor inside the print head is very delicate!
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The sensor is tough as hell. You should be able to drive a car over the heated bed and the only thing that will survive is the temp sensor. Much more likely something broke at the connector to the board. You said you checked the cabling so the second most likely thing is you need to reflow the sold…
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Loose cable to your temp sensor on the bed. Almost surely just loosen and reinsert the two sensor cables (the thinner 2 cables) where they connect to the heated bed. You might be able to get to them in the back but probalby you have to remove the glass, remove the 3 leveling screws and take it apar…
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I don’t understand the question as Cura is a slicer and even cura 14.X and 15.X support dual. Maybe you just need a lesson in how to use Cura? Are you hoping for support material or dual color? A critical feature of the UM3 is that it keeps the “cold” nozzle a few mm above the print so you don’t ge…
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Don’t get your expectations on PVA too high. It’s a difficult material to work with. I also have had a UM3 for 4 weeks now and I really love it. The hardware is great. The new Cura was very frustrating but eventually I learned how it all works. One critical understanding was the difference between “…
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This is pretty easy to fix. The very very loud noise sound bad but the printer can take it. First do what someone said - with power off push head to left and listen for click. Push head to back and listen for click. One of the switches needs to be pressed by one of the rods - you might simply need t…
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Your problem could be one of many but the most likely: This sounds like “too many retractions” where the symptom is the print is mostly fine but fails in a certain area of the same print almost every time. Another symptom is that some prints are fine. Another symptom is that if you pull the filamen…
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The next thing to fix regarding Marvin: print 2 at the same time in “all at once” mode in Cura. It will make a huge difference to his hook on the top of his head as each will have time to cool down while printing the other Marvin. Of course you then need to get your stringing down to zero and white …
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Excellent post! Stainless steel shouldn’t need any oil to protect it from rusting and ball bearings shouldn’t need any lubricant either as they are rolling, right? Or did I miss something. I guess one ball can have friction to the next but so little that it’s better to use zero lubricant I think. T…
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Then you probably need new Z bearings and/or rods. Contact your reseller about this. I would fix this power issue also. It probably got pulled hard enough to damage the cable or the board. I would probably confirm it’s not the board and then gently rip open the end of the cable (a lot of work) and …
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What “printed” said. It’s common for this cable to be difficult to plug in because the PCB can be shifted to the side. The fix is to loosen the 4 screws to the PCB, plug in the power connector so that the connector is centered and then re-tighten the 4 screws. Once the cable is locked on it should …
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It’s almost surely a problem with the power supply and not the printer. They have little computers in them I assume and can get in weird safety states. On the plus side they never melt/burn or send too much power to the printer. If you unplug from the printer and look at the blue light then unplug …
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It’s best to contact me directly at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com. The instructions and the firmware are here: http://gr5.org/hb/ After downloading, connect USB between your computer and printer and using CURA choose “install custom firmware…” and select the downloaded hex file. It’s easy to go back…
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Another way to think of it is this - I couldn’t come up with a safer solution in software to share the power. In theory I could let both heaters be on at the same time if I’m very very careful with overall power usage over the course of a second. But this software solution would be more complicated,…
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It’s all about power management. The power supply that comes with the um2go can’t run the servos, the nozzle heater, and the HB all at the same time. So instead of spending another $100 for a power supply I wrote code that never turns the nozzle and HB on at the same time with nozzle getting priorit…
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The um2go power supply isn’t up to moving all the steppers and supplying power to the nozzle heater and also supplying power to a 50W heated bed all at the same time. I did extensive testing of power usage on that thing - was amazed how much more power it uses if you fight the head movements, lol. S…
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Very true. I’ve printed plenty of ninjaflex on various UM printers and having the bowden is a disadvantage but you can do it - you just have to learn some tricks and you will end up printing much slower but you can do it. But if I were going to be printing a spool per month of ninja (or more) I woul…
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Even if you only ever print PLA, a heated bed is wonderful. Much easier than replacing the tape every 5 or 10 prints.
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What country are you in? 3dsolex sells a um2go HB kit in most of the world, thegr5store.com (my store) sells it in USA. These places also all sell a 1.75mm conversion kit if you want to continue to use your 1.75mm filament. Ultimaker specifically will tell you that you can’t print ABS without a hea…
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Most likely the Z stepper is overheating so definitelyi reduce the Z current but dont’ print anything large until figuring this out. The next most likely thing is that your stepper is moving 2x as far as it should be - something wrong with the microstepping setting. I think there is a jumper on the …
