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Watching the videos they’ve been sharing during the last week I’d say it’s really focused on industrial applications. The videos showed impossible shapes printed with some kind of removable support (PVA maybe?). I want to see the new features, but the price tag will for sure scare me!
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I would recommend you an Ultimaker 2+. As a user with +4000 hours with an Ultimaker 2 and +1000 after upgrading to an Ultimaker 2+, I would really recommend it to you (the 2+ version!). Of course there are more printers on the market, but so far, for prototyping, the Ultimaker 2+ (normal or extended…
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I’m pretty sure the Ultimaker 2+ can be transformed to use 1.75mm filament (not an expensive thing I believe, just changing the bowden tube and a teflon coupler). You will find more information on Google, and on their official forums there’s always someone tranforming it’s printer to 1.75mm filament…
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It’s exact that. Some slicing software let you import images, but I don’t really recommend it for anything precise, beause it won’t be. It takes less time to learn how to 3D design than learning how to import JPGs an 3D print them.
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Where are you trying to download it? On Cults?
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It’s free. Checkout or not, you won’t have to pay anything (except the content of the can).
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If anyone wants to know, I ate 800gr of ravioli bolognese just to make the pictures. It was a very bad decision, but I’d do anything for 3D printing.
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Just saw some comparison videos and just WOW! These drivers make the difference! They are expensive, but I may give them a chance soon. I have some sound dampeners printed with flexible filament, and vibration is not a problem, but it can always be improved. I will check the fans (fans and the blow…
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Fans are one of the big problems. In my case, I have one fan for the electronics, which must be on, and one layer fan which is normally on. The funny thing is that the cooling fan starts at 0% power, and it’s not until 1mm height that it reaches 100% power, so I don’t really feel it’s noisy until it…
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Hopefully it will appear soon! If not, I hope 3D Hubs’ printers go all super loud.
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The Mollom privacy thing is to avoid the Spam Tribe to attack us again, right?
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There are lots of kits, you may find a good one on an online shop in your country. It’s not a Prusa i3 Steel, but Josef Prusa’s (the father of the Prusa i3) company just released the Prusa i3 MK2, which looks really interesting. http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.ht…
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If you’re not used to work with electronics and soldering one or two things, an Ultimaker Original + kit would be perfect. However, if you have a tight budget, I’d totally go for a Prusa i3 Steel (single frame if you will be moving it from one place to another). What I will never recommend you is to…
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The printing quality won’t change, as it depends more on the mechanic parts rather than the extusion system (this is also important, but as long as it’s fine tuned, it doesn’t matter if it’s 1.75mm or 3mm). This is a cyclic debate, and there are no winners, just losers: the customers. As 1.75mm fil…
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Finally someone that think’s the same as I do! I’ve tried woodfill, Magnetic Iron and Bronzefill, and those three are weaker than PLA. They look much better, and for stationary designs they are perfect, but for anythin else, go for 100% plastic filaments.
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Just love it, amazing idea!!!
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The author painted the model after printing it with white filament.
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Does 3D Hubs offer metal 3D printing? It would be an awesome add-on!
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Great quality! I really love woodfill, I will try polyurethane soon, the result looks great. I had tried sanding and polishing, but it didn’t look as real as your prints.
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Nice Pokemon there!
I haven’t noticed any change in the material properties or printing temperatures while using some oil. I also haven’t noticed any burned oil or anything strange when using it. In my opinion, if you use bowden or have under-extrusion problems, some oil will make everything flow … -
On the Ultimaker, which uses a bowden system, I always use a little bit of olive oil to reduce the friction in the tube and to prevent under-extrusion. I have a little filter done with a sponge to clean all the dust, and it has some drops of olive oil to keep the filament always a little bit slippy.…
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Just to confirm, French people are excluded from the contest, right? Eligibility. THE CONTEST IS OPEN ONLY TO NATURAL PERSONS WHO, AT THE TIME OF ENTRY, ARE REGISTERED MEMBERS OF THE SITE, WHO ARE AT LEAST THIRTEEN (13) YEARS OLD (FIFTEEN [15] YEARS OLD FOR RESIDENTS OF NORWAY AND EIGHTEEN [18] YEA…
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SUPER AWESOME!
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I’ve been talking with a friend about this and he made me realise that maybe we are overthinking the non-commercial restriction. I think that all the models on Thingiverse should have the 3D Hubs button. It’s a good thing, not only economically, but also for all the maker community. It should be Th…
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Really happy to see this is finally happening! Now Thingiverse is for everyone in the planet and not just for people with a 3D printer hahahah. However, and considering that I’m a Thingiverse designer and that I’ve had some problems before, I see somehow limited the access to this feature. I share …
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If you have an Ultimaker Original I don’t think the upgrade would be so easy, as it will be necessary to modify the firmware and probably the heated cartridge/temp sensor. In the Ultimaker Original +, which uses the same board, is just as easy as connect the new cables, assemble de printhead and tha…
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I love the project! Signed up!
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I also have an Ultimaker 2 printhead installed on an Ultimaker Original +. As they use the same electronics you just need to print a small part to be able to turn 90º the printhead as the axis are inverted. The part you need to print is available on YouMagine (the user that created it is called Medu…
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Really nice design! I prefer this design over the realitic ones, it combines perfectly with 3D printing!
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I came here just to say that the name of the clients are the best things I’ve seen this month so far.
