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water is fine but even then make it thinner. just a couple of ml’s can make a huge difference and your piston will probably not be a problem then. And I think wasp is with holiday brake starting this week.
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I would use IPO instead of water (evaporates quicker after Printing) and make it Simply thinner because 6bar is more than necessary if you have the right fluidity. Not Sure what to do with piston because I don’t have that issue. Make sure everything is cleaned properly.
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wie kan mij met spoed helpen aan wit filament pla 2.85 vandaag(zondag) regio zwolle? Heb een spoedklis en slecht ingekocht
Fingers crossed 
BvD Barry -
Hi Martijn, ik kan het wel voor je maken, maar woon in Zwolle. Ik schat minder dan een uur werk als ik het ontwerp zo zie. Als de binnenkant niet een bijzonder constructie is zou het ook obv een paar goede foto’s en maten kunnen. Gr Barry
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Why sell it if it’s an awesom machine?
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wow! I just bought a new 4070 and it arrives this friday. What a stunning print. Can’t wait to get started on mine. Good luck selling yours!
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Plain and simple explanation gabriella, great! This is how I like to do it… And I have picked up the tip about the default print settings. I always mention it to my customers, but not as straightforward as your example… like it!
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In all fairness: I simply love simplify3D because of all the options it has got. And I have never had ‘no problems’ when printing over USB with software like replicatorG, Makerware or Cura…So, to me it’s more like a spooler issue (and not a simplify3D). When the computer is really busy it will have …
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and you can try ‘reset all settings’ under help… just to make sure… and if you can’t figure it out get in touch with support from simplify… they’ve helped my out several times…
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It might be possible that you’ve selected one or more processes after clicking ‘prepare for print’. At the popup you can select which layers needs to be printed with a specific process…
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nice, thanks for sharing!
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Buildtak cannot be re-applied (at least when used on kapton). In my experience it doesnt matter if you keep the kapton on or off…results are the same. Maybe it is easily removable directly from the glass or alu…i dont have expiriences with that
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I print on buildtak form 3dprima.com – really love it. I don’t think its a printer thing but a simplify3d thing. When you print with makerware it will have another way of clearing the nozzle before printing (makes one long line and starts to print). Not sure how this proces is called but you will f…
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Hi, i have same setup as you and simplify does create a little blob of filament. I thinks this is how it should be and for me it’s not a problem. the blob nicely sticks to the plate and it stays there when the extruder moves on to the actual print. You can ask simplify helpdesk if you want to change…
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you are so right… only the customer gets a little nervous because of her deadline
and if they get nervous… well…
different ABS and 260C is definetly much better… But I do still see some thin lines on different heights though…
still a little mistery too me but at least I have something for the cu… -
Hey Slak
gecontroleerd, geen fouten gevonden…
groet Barry -
Hi Scott, it seems you might be right on the poor material… I’ve tried a differtent ABS and is much better already. Now i am trying one with higher temp (260) and I think I should be OK. I’ve asked a fellow Hub in the neighborhood to give it try last night and that was ok to, so it can’t be the des…
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Thanks Steven, but that seems ok with my printer. And yes, it’s the same layer everytime…and there are also no problems with the filament… this morning someone told it might be a temperature drop of the extruder. i’m gonna look into that to. cheers!
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update! with my different (but similar) obect and different ABS I got the same after a couple off layers… [IMG_20150428_100255[1].jpg]
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I’ve tried many so far… but I started with 0.15mm, 4 shells, 50%infill, 230C, no support, no raft (buttom layer needs to be smooth). I’ve noticed that the infill doesn’t effect the print at all. The inner and outer shell are not connected whether I try 10% or 100% infill… The only thing that puzzl…
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Thanks Marius, Allthough I am not sure I don’t think it is a heating problem. The cylinder is a good idea, I will folow op on that. And I am gonna thicken the shell a little… running out of time for the customer… thanks Barry
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Hi everyone, i’am trying to print a simple cube shaped object with walls of 2.5mm thick. But somehow every print i’ve tried ends up with a couple of layers that are not well connecting. See picture… i’ve tried low/medium/high res with low/medium/high infill, but all of them have similar issues. t…
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I do like simplify3D myself. Sorry to hear you cant get the dual head tuned. I have the duplicator4 also and it van be a hassle but i tweaked in replicatorg and i was able to get it right a couple of times. Unfortunatly you have to do it often and i haven’t tried s3D tot handle it. But good to know …
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lol, no that wouldn’t be nice I guess
For a project like this you would want the inside to be nice and clean… so, if Elwin used ABS support I am curious how he handled it… -
Great project guys! Looks amazing… I was wondering though about your support structure: did you use ABS or PVA? And if you used ABS, wasn’t it a lot of hassle to remove it?
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Awesome print guys! Do you have more good results with isolating the printer with foam? It looks like something I’am gonna try-out myself… To get rid off any glue/acentone mixtures I use the buildtak from 3dprima… works perfectly for me (only not with PVA but ABS and PLA sticks good). Cheers Barry …
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Hi, why don’t you try shapeways app 2d to 3d convertor… it’s not perfect but can save you a lot off time. Tip: If you use it try to use an image that’s as sharp as possible on the edges for better result. good luck!
![[IMG_20150428_100255[1].jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/a/7/a7edbc3db3a163e3c3c55c95bd74e166e4f71768.jpg){kind=link}