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1. Altitude should not affect print quality. However high humidity will affect your plastic. In that case, you would need to store the plastic in an airtight container filled with silicone crystals or (my current favourite) kitty litter crystals. Mounting a simple hygrometer will allow you to see wh…
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Definitely a bed adhesion issue. You should be able to print on the stock I3 bed (I’m assuming yours also came with black Build Tak covering the bed) without any issues. Prints adhere to Build Tak like crazy (in fact, it’s usually hard to remove), so if it is coming off too easily either your bed h…
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There is a problem with the V2 wanhao i3’s. You need to solder a small cable to ground the temp sensor on the control board. See this video:
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I have been printing on normal glass on a daily basis for over 2 years and I have not seen the glass OR PEI degrade like that. As for the layers, i have my heater alu bed, silicone pads on it, then a sheet of glass with PEI on it. ABS and PETG stick to it like cazy (but comes off easy when cool), s…
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Perfectly explained
I could not agree more. -
Well the glue is meant to work with a heated bed (110 at least for ABS), so heat doesn’t work that well in this case unfortunately
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Personally I removed the BuildTak (The black material with the Wanhao Rhino logo) on it. I couldn’t get the silicone pads to adhere to it - they kept moving around. Removing the BuildTak is messy (it leavs a glue residue that I scraped off carefully), and you need to be careful to not bend the alumi…
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I’m sure it will work. Or just go to the hardware shop and ask them to cut you some normal glass to put the PEI on, before you put PEI on the borosilicate
It doesn’t seem normal that your Z-Axis goes out. Are you sure it’s the axis, and not the bed? I also use the 2 little printed Z axis alignment… -
Actually borosilicate is a very nice glass to use. Borosilicate is the glass they use for lab equipment like test tubes. It tends to transfer heat better than ordinary glass. However normal glass with PEI works perfectly fine for me.
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Biggest tip is to remove the BuildTak from the bed (be careful! It’s very easy to bend the bed!) I use these silicone pads http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52?psc=1&ref_=redir_mobile_desktop&ref_=yo_ii_img to secure the glass to the bed. I cut them into little 5cm x 5cm squares, and use 9 …
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This video describes it very well. The tape is tricky to work with, so watch the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QvZb8ej1aw One thing to be careful of when laying down the tape: while you must try to lay the strips of tape down perfectly side by side, it’s better to have a tiny gap between …
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what is the temperature readout on the LCD when the blockage starts? What software are you using to slice?
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Hi, A bit more information would be required to troubleshoot this. How does the failing occur exactly? Is there a clicking sound, does the extruder just suddenly stop? Does it always stop at the same place on the print? As per the other answers, more information is also required such as: Materia…
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Thanks @ddrobotics. That is exactly why I brought up the topic originally. I did the same thing. That’s why I feel the “3D Print” button should be renamed to something like “Find a hub near you” or something like that.
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I’m more than happy that the flow stays consistent, as you suggest. I agree with consistent flow, but then the button must be named more descriptively.
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Yes I am quite aware of how the “3D Print” button is implemented, both the technical aspects of the ribbon at the top, as well as the UX aspect of keeping a site’s flow consistent, and which page it redirects to. In that case the “3D Print” button should be renamed to something like “Find a hub near…
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Yes, adding glass does cause the bed to be too high. Print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:928008 It allows you to move the z-axis endstop up, and also gives you a nice adjustable z-endstop. I assume you also removed the BuildTak layer if your printer shipped with it? On mine I could not ge…
