1

My printer is usually pretty dang good, but I HAVE been doing mostly larger prints. Little Marvin is not cooperating well.

Anyone with a Robo 3D R1+ have any tips?

I’ve been over layer height, print speed, tempurature, and still have problems with his eyes, feet, and keychain ring.

Thanks

2

you can get for it a Smart LCD Controller XXL what cost like around $69 I think

you then can put a sd card in it then and change other stuff to it too

https://printedsolid.com/products/smart-lcd-controller-xxl

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:219362

I hope this help you :slight_smile:

3

I don’t think that had anything to do with printing Marvin better…thanks?

4

I have a Robo 3D R1+ and I have not had trouble printing the small Marvin keychain

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5

Don’t slow it down on the really small parts. RoBo 3D seems to jam easy when you go too slow.

6

Haha I know, right? Anyways, consider printing slower, at a thicker layer height, and if possible, reduce the infill as well as trying to cool marvin from more sides with more fans. A picture would help resolve the problem.

7

have you changed your retraction length and speed? changing mine has helped a lot

8

It’s doesn’t completely. It does allow you to slow and adjust settings as it prints. Most likely not the answer you need. You can find them for cheaper though anyway.

9

Ok, no help there. thanks anyway.

10

Try lowering your print speed to 50mm and 40mm for the outer perimeter. Temp to 205 and extrusion to .8. Also you need at least 3 walls perimeters sorry. I know it will take a while. The robo 3d stock fan is inadequate. You need a shroud to cool it off quick. Also, print an oiler if you haven’t already. Lower your travel settings to avoid layer banding. 0.1. Would bring out alot of detail. This print is designed specifically to crush your printers benchmarks. And the robo 3d and other moving bed designs don’t typically handle curved surfaces well do the inherent slop in the bed. Hop this helps. Happy printing!

11

Whoa, lot of info! Thank you. I will definitely try those setting.

And you’re right, it would seem attaching a better fan is something I will have to do soon.

What’s an “oiler”??

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I have not, no. I was afraid to mess with anything in that area.

13

I’m definitely seeing the jamming. Thanks.

14

It IS nice, but I can do all those settings on the application.

15

try setting you retraction speed to 86 and length to 0.6. I do not have it on hand but there is guide and 3d file to help adjusting your printer to get the best out of it

16

Exactly.

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Alrighty, will do. Thanks

18

An oiler is designed to help the filament flow through the hotend easier, because it breaks the suface tension of the plastic. Otherwise, you start to get gaps in your prints where air bubbles take the place of the plastic. Since the hotter plastic is heavier than the oil, it sinks and the oil pushes the air out. You may have noticed a great deal if popping and crackling as the filament is pushed through. That is diminished greatly with an oiler. It is especially relevant with large areas printed quickly and tiny areas like the keychain hook. Also, there is a setting in mattercontroller under the matterslice settings that lets you control the print speed if layer takes less than x number of seconds to print. Try 10 seconds, and you will see it slow down enough to prevent some of the issues you are having.

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Learn something new everyday. Thanks so much!

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I don’t know why this hasn’t been posted yet, but turn the bed off (if using MatterControl, set the bed temp to 0). If you do not, Marvin will stay too hot for the duration of the print. This is mentioned in the instructions for Marvin.