Why is something so little, so much trouble!? (Marvin)

WarDarkFox · 2016-04-13T16:53:10.000Z

have you changed your retraction length and speed? changing mine has helped a lot

KSU_Ambassador · 2016-04-13T16:54:01.000Z

It’s doesn’t completely. It does allow you to slow and adjust settings as it prints. Most likely not the answer you need. You can find them for cheaper though anyway.

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T16:57:05.000Z

Ok, no help there. thanks anyway.

John_Talavera · 2016-04-13T16:57:05.000Z

Try lowering your print speed to 50mm and 40mm for the outer perimeter. Temp to 205 and extrusion to .8. Also you need at least 3 walls perimeters sorry. I know it will take a while. The robo 3d stock fan is inadequate. You need a shroud to cool it off quick. Also, print an oiler if you haven’t already. Lower your travel settings to avoid layer banding. 0.1. Would bring out alot of detail. This print is designed specifically to crush your printers benchmarks. And the robo 3d and other moving bed designs don’t typically handle curved surfaces well do the inherent slop in the bed. Hop this helps. Happy printing!

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T16:59:46.000Z

Whoa, lot of info! Thank you. I will definitely try those setting.

And you’re right, it would seem attaching a better fan is something I will have to do soon.

What’s an “oiler”??

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T17:00:14.000Z

I have not, no. I was afraid to mess with anything in that area.

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T17:00:35.000Z

I’m definitely seeing the jamming. Thanks.

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T17:01:28.000Z

It IS nice, but I can do all those settings on the application.

WarDarkFox · 2016-04-13T17:03:03.000Z

try setting you retraction speed to 86 and length to 0.6. I do not have it on hand but there is guide and 3d file to help adjusting your printer to get the best out of it

3dpGeek · 2016-04-13T17:04:19.000Z

Exactly.

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T17:05:45.000Z

Alrighty, will do. Thanks

John_Talavera · 2016-04-13T17:09:05.000Z

An oiler is designed to help the filament flow through the hotend easier, because it breaks the suface tension of the plastic. Otherwise, you start to get gaps in your prints where air bubbles take the place of the plastic. Since the hotter plastic is heavier than the oil, it sinks and the oil pushes the air out. You may have noticed a great deal if popping and crackling as the filament is pushed through. That is diminished greatly with an oiler. It is especially relevant with large areas printed quickly and tiny areas like the keychain hook. Also, there is a setting in mattercontroller under the matterslice settings that lets you control the print speed if layer takes less than x number of seconds to print. Try 10 seconds, and you will see it slow down enough to prevent some of the issues you are having.

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T17:12:15.000Z

Learn something new everyday. Thanks so much!

TheWattsMan · 2016-04-13T17:14:23.000Z

I don’t know why this hasn’t been posted yet, but turn the bed off (if using MatterControl, set the bed temp to 0). If you do not, Marvin will stay too hot for the duration of the print. This is mentioned in the instructions for Marvin.

Miguel_Angel_Qu · 2016-04-13T18:06:24.000Z

Hi.

What slicer are you using?

have you changed any settings?

what layer height are you using?

have you done an extruder calibration setting?

many possibilities…

GrimmBook · 2016-04-13T18:23:49.000Z

Nope hasn’t been mentioned. Thank you. I’ll do that.

Omasik · 2016-04-13T22:04:32.000Z

Hi, I had the same problems as you printing Marvin, but I finally managed to print the hook. however my marvin continues to be melted in the part of the eyes.

I hope we can solve the problem

Infinite3Ds · 2016-04-13T22:52:22.000Z

Could you elaborate more on how the eyes, feet, ring and eyes are turning out?

Maybe looking at a speed and temp issue.

TheMeek · 2016-04-14T04:24:07.000Z

Another method that I have not seen mentioned here is to print more than one Marvin at a time. That way more time will lapse and allow the plastic to cool before it adds more to it. You might also not have to slow it down using this method. What are you printing with should be another obvious question? Everybody always assumes common PLA, but I listed a bunch of exotic materials when I created my account before actually trying them and got stuck trying to print my Marvin with Stainless Steel PLA, (Yuck!). It’s a very difficult material to print with, but I got better results with these methods, but not good enough for my standards and eventually had to move on to other projects.

Mike_Jensen · 2016-05-04T20:47:51.000Z

Grimm, did you find a good solution? I have the same printer and am struggling with the Little Marvin as well. I appreciate all the tips in this thread and I’ve tried the retraction speed/length as mentioned below. I tried slowing from the default of 60 and 50mm/s for inside/outside perimeters to 40mm/s all around. So far it hasn’t made any(?) difference.

I’m trying to print two Marvin’s at once, as mentioned in this thread also…

I’m trying at 100 microns. I appreciate some of the feedback from those that are more well versed. I’m still learning what defects are caused by what problems!

I’m running mostly Hatchbox PLA filament. 210 degrees. BuildTak surface. Setting the bed temp to 30 degrees with .8 offset, doing the leveling before the temp raises so as to not ruin (another) BuildTak surface.

EDIT: using the MatterControl software with MatterSlice. Small custom g-code at the start to do the autolevel before heating the extruder.

Did you find a solid solution for getting a good Little Marvin? Thanks!