I have both Rep 5th gen and plus versions; I was also expecting to use no rafts but figured I might have to adapt the setup to do so. I just got the machine, had all sorts of issues with the remote app setup over WiFi but eventually got it through USB. Note that having MB Desktop and Print on the same machine can lead to USB connection issues. Disable the “background service” in the Desktop to fix. I also have simplify3D and expect it will allow the option to not print a raft. I’ll post something here if I get it before @3Dprintingguy does.
It looks to me that the “new” surface is just the same as a material called “BuildTak.” However, I find the adhesion of the raft to the new material to be very high, at least for Tough PLA. I need to experiment with the Z offset to see if that can be reduced. I’m not expecting this to last any longer than tape over glass. As this new machine gets out I’m certain some enterprising person will offer aftermarket solutions to get back the glass plate functionality of the Rep 5th gen original.
Overall I see the larger build volume as a plus. Note too that this machine is now built in China and not Brooklyn.
Yes true but for those they are usually soluble supports and not break-away style… For me, I’m more concerned about build quality than loss of material in a raft. Printing no-raft against a glass bed has the potential for a smooth bottom surface.
I am curious. Is there nothing to hold this Flex Thing in place while you are printing?
I did some test myself with different plates.
While you are printing you just cant use sth flexing. only when you take the part off you can make use of the flexing. and even then it is an Illusion hat it really helps.
If the part sticks too much you only rip your layers off.
In the end it Comes down to a sticky Surface and print Parameters…
I will chek this makerbot out at the next tradeshow. I dont expect much…
I’m not sure if this will help for a Rep+, but for my Rep2 I found a solution. If the reason you have to use a raft is because if you don’t the print won’t stick, then you can use Ace Hardware blue tape on the plate and your prints will stick. It HAS to be Ace Hardware brand though - everything else will not work. I found this out by accident, but even really large prints will not curl up at the edges.
The PLA does stick very well to the plate around the perimeter , but the center of the plate is so low that the plastic is just squirted into the air. I adjusted the Z offset until the nozzle actually scrapes the front of the plate but the plate is just warped in the center. I had very little trouble with the setup & connection. I am actually happy with the quality of the machine except for the build plate.
There are several plastic clips on the bottom of the plate, but the top surface is just not level. Makerbot has finally agreed to replace my machine, but he said the plate probably not be any better.
since the build plate is warped and is low in the middle - blue tape will not help - even the magic Ace Hardware stuff. Can you replace the plate with a glass plate or something that IS level?
I just gave my replicator pro to my Grandsons. I used glass with hair spray with great success without a raft. My “upgrade” has added complication to my life.
The plate is not heated on the + so I assume the pla would not stick to glass. They are going to replace my printer & if the new one is the same, I will try a glass plate.
I have a 5th generation replicator which is the model right before the plus and I always use rafts. I tend to think that prints just turn out better with rafts and beside that I don’t have to pry to get my model to come up.
I would say that a PEI sheet is your best bet. It will cover the build surface, but not wear out as fast as Blue Painter’s Tape. (Personally I’m sick of hearing about Scotch Tape)
BuildTak being the primary name in the PEI sheet realm, I’d say go with that.
I have the plus as well but mine is for beta testing and the bed assembly is aluminum, using the the same flex bed and it’s totally flat all across the bed. I don’t bend it much, instead I’ve got a very sharp kitchen knife to slide it under the print and it just pops right off.
There is no problem printing with raft (except the waste of time and material), I even recommend you to use it for high resolutions like 150 to 50 microns. For like 50 microns it’s really hard to get a hair line filament coming out of the extruder and make it stick to the bed without raft. Beside helping your model being steady during the print, it also helps to print the first few layers perfectly without the hassle of (micro) leveling for different layer heights every time you want to print and scratch the bed and damage the extruder. That’s the nature of a flex bed that it’s not super flat like a glass bed.
I hope they soon add the advanced settings to the Makerbot Print software so we can customize different setting like Makerbot Desktop.
Thanks for all of the input. Makerbot is now sending a new plate & if it is too warped to work, I will start trying some of these other options. Thanks, Tom
Only when desktop 3D printers came in has there been the desire to print without rafting. I’ve ran FDM1600, FDM2000, and Dimension professional grade machine that all dictated the use of rafting. Rafting certainly can minimize your chances of building curled up parts. I have a 2X and resort to rafting when needed. It’s just part of the tweaking process. You should also run a single layer test part to assure levelness is maximized.
Two years later. I got a Replicator+ for Christmas and I am having the exact same problems as @Duck_9. The extruded first line on the edge is fine but the plate dips in the middle and so the print is in the air and doesn’t adhere.
The build plate I received was not level. I had to downgrade the firmware to 2.5.0 2 because they removed the build leveling procedure in subsequent firmware. It seems that leveling is not enough because the build plate dips in the middle.
Turning off the raft is not a problem. The MakerBot Print Software lets you turn it off under Printer Settings.
I object to people saying that printing with rafts is fine and even preferable. Printing with a raft leaves a residue that is almost impossible to remove. Tweaking the vertical offsets help a little but still leave an ugly and rough base layer when removed. I should be able to print to the plate directly on a $2800 printer. I’ve seen <$200 printers print perfectly without rafts. The bottom of the print should be nice and smooth. Not rough and bumpy.
I have even observed the first layer above the raft and it still fails. The lines are not sharp and don’t adhere properly. It’s weird. It prints the raft perfectly but then fails to print the first layer of the model properly.
I’ve tried a second build plate but had the exact same issue.
I’ve tried blue tape with no difference. I’ve tried hair spray with no difference.
I was able to mitigate this problem by moving the model to the near edge but that is just a workaround. It printed a 3D Benchy’s first layer fine but eventually fails at 70% when the whole thing comes off the base.
I think MakerBot should fix their build plates so they are level. They made a big mistake with this product. It is not acceptable that a model can’t be printed without a raft. Their official stance when I contacted customer support is that they don’t recommend printing without a raft or Brim + Padded base. Note that a Padded Base is a permanent addition to the structure that does not detach and will ruin a design that has to move freely (like a fidget cube or anything with articulated joints)
I ran into the same issue with my Replicator+. I was about to toss it for a Prusa or Ultimaker. I searched around the net for a solution and found a fix that allowed me to level the build plate. I just adjusted some screws on the plate and voila!
My Replicator+ worked great for a few months and it just began having prints peel off the bed. I tried everything under the sun. Makerbot’s site was no help at all. I wish their products and support matched their price.
