I have been using the Fleks3d flexible build plate on my replicator 2 and since getting it, no more blue tape, just print as it should be. Not sure how the Replicator+ build plate is, but you can use some clips to hold it on.
Printing with a raft is not uncommon. Professional, high end FDM printers all print with a raft. When you break it down, Makerbot’s filament costs about $0.07/cm3. (for standard colors). So I don’t think you should be overly concerned about having a raft. But it’s your printer, and you should be able to use it however you’d like. There is a way to turn off the raft. In Makerbot Desktop, go to settings and click on the advanced button. There should be a tab for Raft and Support. Click the tab and unchecked raft. If that doesn’t work, there is an option to edit the setting with a text editor. I like Notepad++, but any editor will do. Look for the line that says Raft: True, and change it to False. Then save and print. Disclaimer: I am doing this from memory on my phone, so the instructions may not be precise.
I have the plus as well but mine is for beta testing and the bed assembly is aluminum, using the the same flex bed and it’s totally flat all across the bed. I don’t bend it much, instead I’ve got a very sharp kitchen knife to slide it under the print and it just pops right off.
There is no problem printing with raft (except the waste of time and material), I even recommend you to use it for high resolutions like 150 to 50 microns. For like 50 microns it’s really hard to get a hair line filament coming out of the extruder and make it stick to the bed without raft. Beside helping your model being steady during the print, it also helps to print the first few layers perfectly without the hassle of (micro) leveling for different layer heights every time you want to print and scratch the bed and damage the extruder. That’s the nature of a flex bed that it’s not super flat like a glass bed.
I hope they soon add the advanced settings to the Makerbot Print software so we can customize different setting like Makerbot Desktop.
Thanks for all of the input. Makerbot is now sending a new plate & if it is too warped to work, I will start trying some of these other options. Thanks, Tom
Only when desktop 3D printers came in has there been the desire to print without rafting. I’ve ran FDM1600, FDM2000, and Dimension professional grade machine that all dictated the use of rafting. Rafting certainly can minimize your chances of building curled up parts. I have a 2X and resort to rafting when needed. It’s just part of the tweaking process. You should also run a single layer test part to assure levelness is maximized.
