Replicator+

[3DPrintfactory]

Hello!

Well, I can’t test it, because my printer is busy at the moment. But try the following workaround:

- Install MakerBot Print and MakerBot Desktop

- Open first MakerBot Desktop and try to connect your Replicator+ (Remote connection)

- Then under Devices → Device Preferences you can make a manual z-axis offset (Do it step by step and be careful not to damage the extruder or buildplate)

- Close MakerBot Desktop and switch to MakerBot Print

- Prepare your Files and just uncheck Raft in the settings

- Start printing

Hope it works. Would be great to get some Feedback.

I’m from 3d-edu.ch a MakerBot Reseller in Switzerland. We’ll send your desire directly to MakerBot US Engineering Team - because we’re even interested in printing with the MakerBot Replicator+ without Raft.

Best regards

Claudio

[chanman]

I have been using the Fleks3d flexible build plate on my replicator 2 and since getting it, no more blue tape, just print as it should be. Not sure how the Replicator+ build plate is, but you can use some clips to hold it on.

FLEKS3D™ Print.Fleks.Done.

[NichterPrints]

Printing with a raft is not uncommon. Professional, high end FDM printers all print with a raft. When you break it down, Makerbot’s filament costs about $0.07/cm3. (for standard colors). So I don’t think you should be overly concerned about having a raft. But it’s your printer, and you should be able to use it however you’d like. There is a way to turn off the raft. In Makerbot Desktop, go to settings and click on the advanced button. There should be a tab for Raft and Support. Click the tab and unchecked raft. If that doesn’t work, there is an option to edit the setting with a text editor. I like Notepad++, but any editor will do. Look for the line that says Raft: True, and change it to False. Then save and print. Disclaimer: I am doing this from memory on my phone, so the instructions may not be precise.

[erickphd]

I have both Rep 5th gen and plus versions; I was also expecting to use no rafts but figured I might have to adapt the setup to do so. I just got the machine, had all sorts of issues with the remote app setup over WiFi but eventually got it through USB. Note that having MB Desktop and Print on the same machine can lead to USB connection issues. Disable the “background service” in the Desktop to fix. I also have simplify3D and expect it will allow the option to not print a raft. I’ll post something here if I get it before @3Dprintingguy does.

It looks to me that the “new” surface is just the same as a material called “BuildTak.” However, I find the adhesion of the raft to the new material to be very high, at least for Tough PLA. I need to experiment with the Z offset to see if that can be reduced. I’m not expecting this to last any longer than tape over glass. As this new machine gets out I’m certain some enterprising person will offer aftermarket solutions to get back the glass plate functionality of the Rep 5th gen original.

Overall I see the larger build volume as a plus. Note too that this machine is now built in China and not Brooklyn.

[erickphd]

Yes true but for those they are usually soluble supports and not break-away style… For me, I’m more concerned about build quality than loss of material in a raft. Printing no-raft against a glass bed has the potential for a smooth bottom surface.

[Lembach3D]

Hello Duck

I am curious. Is there nothing to hold this Flex Thing in place while you are printing?

I did some test myself with different plates.

While you are printing you just cant use sth flexing. only when you take the part off you can make use of the flexing. and even then it is an Illusion hat it really helps.

If the part sticks too much you only rip your layers off.

In the end it Comes down to a sticky Surface and print Parameters…

I will chek this makerbot out at the next tradeshow. I dont expect much…

regards

Andreas

[ChininisDesign]

I’m not sure if this will help for a Rep+, but for my Rep2 I found a solution. If the reason you have to use a raft is because if you don’t the print won’t stick, then you can use Ace Hardware blue tape on the plate and your prints will stick. It HAS to be Ace Hardware brand though - everything else will not work. I found this out by accident, but even really large prints will not curl up at the edges.

[Duck_9]

The PLA does stick very well to the plate around the perimeter , but the center of the plate is so low that the plastic is just squirted into the air. I adjusted the Z offset until the nozzle actually scrapes the front of the plate but the plate is just warped in the center. I had very little trouble with the setup & connection. I am actually happy with the quality of the machine except for the build plate.

[Duck_9]

Starting a print without the raft is not the problem. The plate is so warped that it will not stick in the center of the plate.

[Duck_9]

There are several plastic clips on the bottom of the plate, but the top surface is just not level. Makerbot has finally agreed to replace my machine, but he said the plate probably not be any better.

[ChininisDesign]

since the build plate is warped and is low in the middle - blue tape will not help - even the magic Ace Hardware stuff. Can you replace the plate with a glass plate or something that IS level?

[Duck_9]

I just gave my replicator pro to my Grandsons. I used glass with hair spray with great success without a raft. My “upgrade” has added complication to my life.

[Duck_9]

The plate is not heated on the + so I assume the pla would not stick to glass. They are going to replace my printer & if the new one is the same, I will try a glass plate.

[ChininisDesign]

pretty sure glass with blue tape from Ace will work, it will be level and it will stick

[Duck_9]

Will it stick without heat?

[360alaska]

I have a 5th generation replicator which is the model right before the plus and I always use rafts. I tend to think that prints just turn out better with rafts and beside that I don’t have to pry to get my model to come up.

[Thomas_Hewlett]

I would say that a PEI sheet is your best bet. It will cover the build surface, but not wear out as fast as Blue Painter’s Tape. (Personally I’m sick of hearing about Scotch Tape)

BuildTak being the primary name in the PEI sheet realm, I’d say go with that.

[shahramrobotics]

Hi Thomas,

I have the plus as well but mine is for beta testing and the bed assembly is aluminum, using the the same flex bed and it’s totally flat all across the bed. I don’t bend it much, instead I’ve got a very sharp kitchen knife to slide it under the print and it just pops right off.
There is no problem printing with raft (except the waste of time and material), I even recommend you to use it for high resolutions like 150 to 50 microns. For like 50 microns it’s really hard to get a hair line filament coming out of the extruder and make it stick to the bed without raft. Beside helping your model being steady during the print, it also helps to print the first few layers perfectly without the hassle of (micro) leveling for different layer heights every time you want to print and scratch the bed and damage the extruder. That’s the nature of a flex bed that it’s not super flat like a glass bed.
I hope they soon add the advanced settings to the Makerbot Print software so we can customize different setting like Makerbot Desktop.

[Duck_9]

Thanks for all of the input. Makerbot is now sending a new plate & if it is too warped to work, I will start trying some of these other options. Thanks, Tom

[DaveDelay]

Only when desktop 3D printers came in has there been the desire to print without rafting. I’ve ran FDM1600, FDM2000, and Dimension professional grade machine that all dictated the use of rafting. Rafting certainly can minimize your chances of building curled up parts. I have a 2X and resort to rafting when needed. It’s just part of the tweaking process. You should also run a single layer test part to assure levelness is maximized.