Marvin trouble

[MB3D]

I’m sorry for misunderstanding me, but I didn’t mean 0,38/0,34mm instead the right extrusion width is 0,38-0,40mm. You understood everything else correctly. Green or white would be best for me to inspect the print by looking at pictures. -Marius

[Odense3DPrint]

oki, will give a new go during the evening… printing some spares right now.

[Odense3DPrint]

So just to get it right i have a 0.35 nozzle should i try to set extrusion width higher or lower?

or should i use flow tweak settings instead?

[Odense3DPrint]

coasting… can you explain what that means so i can find the similar setting in kisslicer?

but so far i have upped each layer time to 15s

and upped temps by 5C… first layer 185 and the rest 180

bed temp is set to 60, if i go lower nothing sticks… mind you i’m printing directly on glass (ikea mirror)

what speed should i use? currently i have set X and Y to 250 mm/s… first layer 10mm/s and it adds 3 for each layer after the first one. accelleration is set to 2000 mm/s^2

[MB3D]

If you use the 0.35mm nozzles you should increase the extrusion width to 0.38-0.40mm since the filament line will flatten out due to gravity. I have best results using 0.40mm width in the settings. Good luck, Marius

[MB3D]

Coasting (a value set in mm) means, that the printer stops extruding for a certain length before going into a retraction. If you enable this you compensate the possible oozing when the printhead moves to another location. I have used 20mm/s as print speed and 10mm/s for the first layer. I also print on a glass plate and smear some glue stivk stick (solvent free) on the plate when it heats up. This creates a really good sticky surface, you might even need to use a knife or blade to remove the print. A small, barely visible layer of glue is all you need. Marius

[Odense3DPrint]

still printing spares (gear wheel for extruder - old one is worn)

but there is no setting like what you descripe… so i will have to make do with playing arround with how much suck it does before a move to a new place… and how far or little it has to move before it considers a new location… but i feel a bit more wise at least…

[Odense3DPrint]

upping temps by 5C and lower the speed just a tad helped a damm lot.

The face edge is now spot on and only have to get rid of some tiny strings in the hook part and some blobs on each side of the face…

i have been at a birthday all day and i did not have time to change filament before i went out so i only have it in black… have upped suck on destring to 2mm and will see what that gives me.

[MB3D]

Good to hear your progress.

Take the time you need

-Marius

[Odense3DPrint]

doing one in semi transparent green right now… even thou my hub is activated i want to get it right…

it was not so much the temp that did it, it was more the speed when doing the perimeters… suck was also not the thing (i tried going from 1 to 2 mm and it only made it worse.

this time i have lowered the temps again but upped suck to 1.1mm and lowered the speed a bit more

[MB3D]

Please make some pictures, even if Marvin isn’t finished it might be helpful and some pictures of the final print are required so that I can help you further.

[Odense3DPrint]

There you go…

the missing hook i figured… to much suck so it sucked more than it feeded

the first print after marvin was thin to start with

[Odense3DPrint]

the black marvin is almost the same settings… except the extra suck that ruined the hook

[MB3D]

Can you explain what exactly the “such”-feature does?

[Odense3DPrint]

it “sucks” back the filament…

it can also be called retraction… not sure why kisslicer uses that wording

[MB3D]

Does it only pull back the filament or does it also push out the same length at the end of a “retraction”-move ? On such a small print it should not compensate oozing by using extra restart distance (that means that you pull 2mm in and push for example 1,8mm out to compensate 0,2mm oozing in the nozzle). The extra restart distance in this example would be -0,2mm because 2,0mm + extra restart distance (-0,2mm) = 1,8mm

Please look up the settings and adjust the settings so that the printer does not compensate oozing. Did you adjust the extrusion length (if possible for your printer) ?

Watch this video for explanation:

-Marius

[Odense3DPrint]

it has seperate settings for retraction and prime… and yes on such a small print its not needed and can end in a catastrophy

i trimmed the settings and its now working as it should

[Odense3DPrint]

watching the video now…

By extrusion length you mean the steps pr mm for the extruder right? Yes i got that one spot on

btw… if there are some terms you cant explain well in english but better in german give it a go, i can read german no problem, its more my spoken german and written that are not good

[MB3D]

Did you make another print with those settings ? Another thing that might help and is pretty obvious is that you need a clean nozzle, if yours is full of filament blobs etc. heat it up to ~150°C (depending on filament) and brush the extruder with a brass brush. I usually clean the nozzle and heater block while it is heating for the next printjob. Depending on the extruder you have you should be very carefull and use a soft brass brush, however this wouldnt clean up as fast

[Odense3DPrint]

yep i printed with those settings and have not had any issues since…

about the nozzle… yep i clean mine too, its easy to spot if blobs has formed… i just use a small nail scissor and gently scrape from from top to bottom where filament comes out… in many cases i aim to do this at 150 where all the filament comes off in one ball of “goo”