Marvin trouble

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-26T22:38:36.000Z

Some better pics… the white marlin is an old one i had in my scrap box… it shows the problem more clearly… i even included a photo of the advanced marvin found on thingiverse… that one came out as it should thou not as detailed as shown on thingiverse but that is due to my printers capabilities (which is not good enough)

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MB3D · 2015-03-26T22:54:05.000Z

I guess you could lower the extrusion muliplier by a little bit and maybe increase cooling (if you can only cooling while the printer prints the lower part of the ear and the upper part of the helmet => the overhangs). Increasing the print temperature and lowering printspeed (try to make the printer spend 10-12sec per layer) should increase layerbonding and therefore the layers should be less visible. I had most success with 10-15mm/s at 203°C with 0,05mm layer height.

Do you have any colored PLA laying around ? It’s difficult to see stuff like small filament blobs on sharp edges, single strings from the first few overhang angles etc.

White or any intense color (with flashlight enabled on the smartphone) should give good pictures.

Since you print with PLA there should be no reqirement of such a giant brim, i have chosen two outlines of a skirt to get the printer extruding a little bit (so i can check, that the filament is loaded correctly without sacrificing the first layer) before the printer actually started with marvin.

If you can enable coasting and set it to 2,5mm (if you print at 190-200°C) this should also take away some blobs.

As i can see in the settings you have set the extrusion width to 0,35mm is .35 the diameter of the nozzle’s hole ? If thats the case you have to increase it a little bit, since the filament flows to the side so:

for .3mm nozzle choose .34 extrusion diameter

for .35mm nozzle choose .38/4mm extrusion diameter

etc.

-Marius

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-27T07:23:44.000Z

i guess what you call extrusion multiplier is the flow tweak section in kisslicer? Cooling is at max all the time

print time is set to 10s each layer

is assume that black is colored? but i do also have a small bit of white left and then half a reel of green

marvin has to little footprint for it to stick… it will be knocked loose about half way during the print even with heated bed on

without the heated bed it will not stick at all…

nozzle is 0.35mm so will set extrusion to 0.34

but i can conclude that i mist play with extrusion width and temp ? and maybe speed?

MB3D · 2015-03-27T07:38:09.000Z

I’m sorry for misunderstanding me, but I didn’t mean 0,38/0,34mm instead the right extrusion width is 0,38-0,40mm. You understood everything else correctly. Green or white would be best for me to inspect the print by looking at pictures. -Marius

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-27T12:48:01.000Z

oki, will give a new go during the evening… printing some spares right now.

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-27T12:59:06.000Z

So just to get it right i have a 0.35 nozzle should i try to set extrusion width higher or lower?

or should i use flow tweak settings instead?

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-27T13:12:18.000Z

coasting… can you explain what that means so i can find the similar setting in kisslicer?

but so far i have upped each layer time to 15s

and upped temps by 5C… first layer 185 and the rest 180

bed temp is set to 60, if i go lower nothing sticks… mind you i’m printing directly on glass (ikea mirror)

what speed should i use? currently i have set X and Y to 250 mm/s… first layer 10mm/s and it adds 3 for each layer after the first one. accelleration is set to 2000 mm/s^2

MB3D · 2015-03-27T13:48:15.000Z

If you use the 0.35mm nozzles you should increase the extrusion width to 0.38-0.40mm since the filament line will flatten out due to gravity. I have best results using 0.40mm width in the settings. Good luck, Marius

MB3D · 2015-03-27T14:04:14.000Z

Coasting (a value set in mm) means, that the printer stops extruding for a certain length before going into a retraction. If you enable this you compensate the possible oozing when the printhead moves to another location. I have used 20mm/s as print speed and 10mm/s for the first layer. I also print on a glass plate and smear some glue stivk stick (solvent free) on the plate when it heats up. This creates a really good sticky surface, you might even need to use a knife or blade to remove the print. A small, barely visible layer of glue is all you need. Marius

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-27T15:12:26.000Z

still printing spares (gear wheel for extruder - old one is worn)

but there is no setting like what you descripe… so i will have to make do with playing arround with how much suck it does before a move to a new place… and how far or little it has to move before it considers a new location… but i feel a bit more wise at least…

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-28T19:15:15.000Z

upping temps by 5C and lower the speed just a tad helped a damm lot.

The face edge is now spot on and only have to get rid of some tiny strings in the hook part and some blobs on each side of the face…

i have been at a birthday all day and i did not have time to change filament before i went out so i only have it in black… have upped suck on destring to 2mm and will see what that gives me.

MB3D · 2015-03-28T20:08:32.000Z

Good to hear your progress.

Take the time you need

-Marius

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-30T12:47:59.000Z

doing one in semi transparent green right now… even thou my hub is activated i want to get it right…

it was not so much the temp that did it, it was more the speed when doing the perimeters… suck was also not the thing (i tried going from 1 to 2 mm and it only made it worse.

this time i have lowered the temps again but upped suck to 1.1mm and lowered the speed a bit more

MB3D · 2015-03-30T13:02:40.000Z

Please make some pictures, even if Marvin isn’t finished it might be helpful and some pictures of the final print are required so that I can help you further.

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-30T19:01:38.000Z

There you go…

the missing hook i figured… to much suck so it sucked more than it feeded

the first print after marvin was thin to start with

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Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-30T19:03:24.000Z

the black marvin is almost the same settings… except the extra suck that ruined the hook

MB3D · 2015-03-30T19:26:14.000Z

Can you explain what exactly the “such”-feature does?

Odense3DPrint · 2015-03-31T14:03:56.000Z

it “sucks” back the filament…

it can also be called retraction… not sure why kisslicer uses that wording

MB3D · 2015-03-31T14:14:56.000Z

Does it only pull back the filament or does it also push out the same length at the end of a “retraction”-move ? On such a small print it should not compensate oozing by using extra restart distance (that means that you pull 2mm in and push for example 1,8mm out to compensate 0,2mm oozing in the nozzle). The extra restart distance in this example would be -0,2mm because 2,0mm + extra restart distance (-0,2mm) = 1,8mm

Please look up the settings and adjust the settings so that the printer does not compensate oozing. Did you adjust the extrusion length (if possible for your printer) ?

Watch this video for explanation:

-Marius

Odense3DPrint · 2015-04-01T15:37:59.000Z

it has seperate settings for retraction and prime… and yes on such a small print its not needed and can end in a catastrophy

i trimmed the settings and its now working as it should