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Jan 2015

99 cent store picture frame for me. 4x6, in side by side portrait orientation results in a glass sheet just about 9 inches long.

I’ve had best luck with glue stick, which for me sticks stronger than hairspray so you lose fewer large prints. I also use a car windshield cleaner that targets bug splatter to clean the glue afterwards; it cleans gluestick better than hairspray.

You can certainly use glass, I prefer using 6 inch wide tape to avoid lines and avoid glue / hairspray. I suppose its all personal preference. I don’t like the “clips” people use to attach a sheet of glass to the build plate though, I’ve got a purpose built solution on the way, let me know if you’re interested.

Fantastic range of comments thanks.

In summary - “Just get some glass”.

Thanks guys.

Cris.

I have Dreamers, not Creators, but I DO use the borosilicate glass.

“Just some glass” will work, but I like the borosilicate because I don’t have to worry about it when I heat up the bed and run ABS.

It works great, and has increased the quality of my prints a lot.

Feel free to use code EAF9B700D3B4E18 on my site for 10% off at checkout. I’ve got some great 6 inch tape, both standard and high temp / performance tape.

Yeah the hairspray thing… apparently it needs to be a very specific brand of hairspray which isn’t available here in South Africa. I have tried the ones that are available and none of them work. Plus the hairspray option is expensive. I can get 5 litres of acetone for about R100 (approx $9) and that last about a year. I make about 100ml slurry at a time in a jar. This takes a few minutes, then I apply it to the glass with a brush before the print starts. Not exactly work… YMMV.

1 month later
13 days later
10 months later

Also, yes borosilicate glass is VERY good glass and recommended, however, I just spoke to my glass shop davis glass in las vegas, they use tempered glass, and they even use them on fireplaces where there is flames involved not directly but temps should get up to 100 - 200C. They say it works great. I too have been printing in ABS a lot and other filaments like polycarbonate and bed up as high as 120. No problems there.

I did go to frys and bought a tube of MGChemicals white lithium grease (yeah I know not really on this subject but related) and added to the Z screw and bearings, and also got some silicone heat transfer paste. Both came in a tube like toothpaste and the heat transfer # 860-150G was around 16.50 USD, and the white lithium grease #8461-85ML was 7.99 USD. I noticed the bed heats up a little faster and holds a more stable temp as well. I would like if I could find a way to easily clean the glass and re apply hair spray to put some paste on the glass to the aluminum plate too. I just haven’t had any issues with 1st layer adhesion to have to try it lol.

Anyhow I hope my 2 cents maybe 3 cents is worth something to someone!

2 years later

I did, and dude: no adhesion problem since then ! I mostly use PLA in my FFCP, and use hairspray (strong hairspray). Works wonders to adhere several prints in a row.

If I need traditional strength (maybe because a big part has only little contact surface with the build plate), then I use gluestick, and the problem is gone.

Just beware that my laser thermometer registers only a glass temperature comprised between 65 and 68 degrees when I ask for a build plate at 70 degrees, sot there’s a small temperature drop.

The most challenging part of the glass mod is to offset the home of the Z axis by putting a bit of plastic inf front of the home Z interrupter and to correctly fasten the glass on the bed so it does not slide during the printing.

For that later problem, here is my personal design, feel free to use: http://a360.co/2yGgQ0o 18

(The joints are messed up, but I hope the concept is quite clear)