Also, yes borosilicate glass is VERY good glass and recommended, however, I just spoke to my glass shop davis glass in las vegas, they use tempered glass, and they even use them on fireplaces where there is flames involved not directly but temps should get up to 100 - 200C. They say it works great. I too have been printing in ABS a lot and other filaments like polycarbonate and bed up as high as 120. No problems there.
I did go to frys and bought a tube of MGChemicals white lithium grease (yeah I know not really on this subject but related) and added to the Z screw and bearings, and also got some silicone heat transfer paste. Both came in a tube like toothpaste and the heat transfer # 860-150G was around 16.50 USD, and the white lithium grease #8461-85ML was 7.99 USD. I noticed the bed heats up a little faster and holds a more stable temp as well. I would like if I could find a way to easily clean the glass and re apply hair spray to put some paste on the glass to the aluminum plate too. I just haven’t had any issues with 1st layer adhesion to have to try it lol.
Anyhow I hope my 2 cents maybe 3 cents is worth something to someone!
I did, and dude: no adhesion problem since then ! I mostly use PLA in my FFCP, and use hairspray (strong hairspray). Works wonders to adhere several prints in a row.
If I need traditional strength (maybe because a big part has only little contact surface with the build plate), then I use gluestick, and the problem is gone.
Just beware that my laser thermometer registers only a glass temperature comprised between 65 and 68 degrees when I ask for a build plate at 70 degrees, sot there’s a small temperature drop.
The most challenging part of the glass mod is to offset the home of the Z axis by putting a bit of plastic inf front of the home Z interrupter and to correctly fasten the glass on the bed so it does not slide during the printing.
