Skip to main content
I use standard (in the US) 8x10 plate glass windowpanes, which are cheap and easy. With 8x10 Plate Glass Clips by laird - Thingiverse 52 to hold them to the print bed. They work great, and it’s easy to swap them when you change Kapton tape vs Painter’s tape vs hairspray, etc.
1 month later
Hi Joe,
direct mail does not seem to work. Here’s the link:
http://metaquip.nl/en/product/3d-printer-print-on-glass-kit/ 14
Regards Barry
13 days later
if you want buildtak we stock it www.technologyoutlet.co.uk 5
if you want buildtak we stock it www.technologyoutlet.co.uk 2
10 months later
I have the newer model of FFCP with the thick aluminum build plate. It should still be exactly the same if you have the one with the thin aluminum plate.
I am using 3/16 standard glass from a local glass shop. Works great haven’t had any warped but I did break a few… it was my fault as I dropped them too hard on the counter (my hands go numb too many back surgeries (15))
I am using some corners from thingiverse that I believe makersome designed, however I made my own change for the thicker glass. If you need the corners let me know and Ill send you my stl files. I printed them out of ABS, glass is non borosilicate, but still works.
I am planning up upgrading the size of the bed to larger glass for larger print volume and will be playing with some polycarbonate and maybe some mirror as well.
Also, yes borosilicate glass is VERY good glass and recommended, however, I just spoke to my glass shop davis glass in las vegas, they use tempered glass, and they even use them on fireplaces where there is flames involved not directly but temps should get up to 100 - 200C. They say it works great. I too have been printing in ABS a lot and other filaments like polycarbonate and bed up as high as 120. No problems there.
I did go to frys and bought a tube of MGChemicals white lithium grease (yeah I know not really on this subject but related) and added to the Z screw and bearings, and also got some silicone heat transfer paste. Both came in a tube like toothpaste and the heat transfer # 860-150G was around 16.50 USD, and the white lithium grease #8461-85ML was 7.99 USD. I noticed the bed heats up a little faster and holds a more stable temp as well. I would like if I could find a way to easily clean the glass and re apply hair spray to put some paste on the glass to the aluminum plate too. I just haven’t had any issues with 1st layer adhesion to have to try it lol.
Anyhow I hope my 2 cents maybe 3 cents is worth something to someone!
2 years later
I did, and dude: no adhesion problem since then ! I mostly use PLA in my FFCP, and use hairspray (strong hairspray). Works wonders to adhere several prints in a row.
If I need traditional strength (maybe because a big part has only little contact surface with the build plate), then I use gluestick, and the problem is gone.
Just beware that my laser thermometer registers only a glass temperature comprised between 65 and 68 degrees when I ask for a build plate at 70 degrees, sot there’s a small temperature drop.
The most challenging part of the glass mod is to offset the home of the Z axis by putting a bit of plastic inf front of the home Z interrupter and to correctly fasten the glass on the bed so it does not slide during the printing.
For that later problem, here is my personal design, feel free to use: http://a360.co/2yGgQ0o 18
(The joints are messed up, but I hope the concept is quite clear)