I managed to sort out most of the bugs. I am up and printing now
All the help I can get would be appriciated. I recently purchased a ANYCUBIC(Generic Kossel Mini) 3d Printer off aliexpress. I have the assembly complete which was not too bad, only took 5 hours. Before I go any further I would like to point out that I am a complete novice to 3d printing. After assembly I verified everything was correct including all conections boards, stepper drivers, end stops, ect.
The printer comes with no firmware installed. The manaul with all the photos that was helpful in building the printer was useless for the next part. It named the programs to install as if they came with the printer which they did not. I downloaded the arduino software and drivers to connect to the printer. I downloaded the lastest Marlin firmware and uploaded it to the printer.
Here is a quick Youtube video, sorry about the quality it was taken with my phone
So here are my Issues:
1. The LCD controller lights up but does nothing, it is currently useless
2. Homing does not work, or work correctly - Only Z motor moves up
3. I cannot move any of the motors down only up
4. When I use the M119 command it tells me min’s are all triggered. I do not believe I should have mins triggers active on this printer. Also note their is no auto leveling with this kit.
Any help would be greatly appriciated as I am new to this and at this point kinda lost. I did try many options i researched online for the lcd control panel such as remove the comment for the item below and import the recommended Lib file
You did get the delta-specific firmware version, right?
Modify these settings to un-trigger your endstops. Or put some jumper wires on your min endstop connectors.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
Motor behaviour is correct, it won’t let you “ram into” a triggered end stop, so if the end stop is not connected, it counts as triggered, and it won’t let you move down.
I have everything working so so now. I just need to calibrate the printer. I am trying to calibrate it using M666 in Pronterface but it doesnt seem like it wants to take the changes I input using M666
I have the LCD display working now however I have a MAXTEMP error now and did not before Could it be something in the marlin firmware all of a sudden that I used to get the lcd working.
UPDATE:
I managed to sort out most of the bugs. I am up and printing now
Hi there, I recently bought the Anycubic Mini Kossel as well, and I am having a horrible time of getting the firmware running properly on mine. When I do auto home, the whole thing comes crashing down into the heat bed, only 2 of the 3 axis moves, without usb power AND 12v power from my 350watt PSU (just running from the PSU), the LCD just constantly blinks on/off, and many more issues.
Would you be able to share your Configuration.h file with me by any chance?
If you want to give me an email address I can send you the firmware I am using, the only thing you will have to adjust is the z height to match your specific build, other then that if you have an anycubic everything else should be fine to use
I have also just finished setting up an AnyCubic Mini Kossel printer. My very first try at 3d printering…
I would appreciate any details you have of the hotend heater and thermistor settings you used, as there is no info on the actual kit included in the box =(
If you are still following this thread, please email a copy of your config file(s) to jon_maguire(at)yahoo.co.uk
I have been trying to put a link to my settings (both Marlin and Repetier) but the post doesn’t want to appear…
Seems to trigger some sort of spam filter (?)
Anyway have managed to beat the system =) and hopefully you can put the url together to my Google Drive folder, which has copies of both the Marlin and Repetier firmwares.
However they are both still being tuned, and in no way the finished article. Personally I like the Repetier fw better, but that’s only my personal preference I guess. Hopefully it will help somebody get started a bit quicker than it did me.
PS. I would like to thank everyone who sent me a copy of their firmware, which helped a great deal in getting started, and without their input I would still be scratching my head.
Hi guys , I have the same printer and the same problem did not send me the frimware and and installed several but the printer goes crazy and does not run the engine extruder , please send me the frimware must go my mail is deivison90@hotmail .com
i Sent you the firmware. If you do not have the Arduino SDK on your system make sure you have the latest Arduino SDK installed.
Once that is installed you can click on the marlin file in the marlin folder when you unzip it and it will load into the Arduino SDK. There will be a bunch of tabs, the tab to refine your zheight and pretty much all of your other parameters is configuration.h. you plug your printer into your pc. In the arduino SDK under tools select your board it is Atmega2560 then under port select your com port your printer is connected to. You can now click the circle with the arrow on it just under the edit button to upload the firmware to your printer
I’m getting the same LCD screen error that you are. My steppers work fine just my LCD screen won’t display anything besides the two white lines like your’s did.
What did you do to solve this problem? Was it just a firmware problem?
One of two issues, if you don’t have the smartlcd enabled in your configuration.h settings then enable it LCD2004. Or your contrast could be too high, there is a small adjustment screw on the back of your lcd panel near the sd card slot that will lower or raise your contrast
I think the section I need too change to define is in this part of the firmware. But I also don’t know if this matches the most current version of Marlin.
//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you’re getting volume init error)
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the Ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the UltiPanel as on Thingiverse
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000 // this is the tone frequency the buzzer plays when on UI feedback. ie Screen Click
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100 // the duration the buzzer plays the UI feedback sound. ie Screen Click
Looks like that part of the firmware is already define. What version of the firmware are you using to run yours? I still have the most current one supplied by Anycubic. Are you using a custom setup of Marlin?
Well thinking it might have been a broken piece of hardware (the LCD brightness control broke off) I replaced the whole LDC unit with the same type. After replacing I re-uploaded the firmware that AnyCubic has on their Google Doc’ site making sure the
was define as needed. But there is no change to the LCD screen it still just displays two while lines. If I enter in commands in the print run it runs fine. I just can’t calibrate it since I can’t see anything on the LCD screen. I’m not sure if there is another way to do the calibration without the screen. I’m still new to all of this.
