Go to homepage
21 / 41
Sep 2016
2 months later
10 days later
1 month later
14 days later

I have also just finished setting up an AnyCubic Mini Kossel printer. My very first try at 3d printering…

I would appreciate any details you have of the hotend heater and thermistor settings you used, as there is no info on the actual kit included in the box =(

If you are still following this thread, please email a copy of your config file(s) to jon_maguire(at)yahoo.co.uk

Thanks…

16 days later

I have been trying to put a link to my settings (both Marlin and Repetier) but the post doesn’t want to appear…

Seems to trigger some sort of spam filter (?)

Anyway have managed to beat the system =) and hopefully you can put the url together to my Google Drive folder, which has copies of both the Marlin and Repetier firmwares.

However they are both still being tuned, and in no way the finished article. Personally I like the Repetier fw better, but that’s only my personal preference I guess. Hopefully it will help somebody get started a bit quicker than it did me.

http s: //drive(dot)google(dot)com/folderview?id=0B76dpYLQ7rqAM2VlWjdLWWRiaVU&usp=sharing

PS. I would like to thank everyone who sent me a copy of their firmware, which helped a great deal in getting started, and without their input I would still be scratching my head.

Enjoy!

14 days later

Hi guys , I have the same printer and the same problem did not send me the frimware and and installed several but the printer goes crazy and does not run the engine extruder , please send me the frimware must go my mail is deivison90@hotmail .com

I have emailed you the firmware, just be sure to measure your max z height and change that value in the configuration.h tab to match

1 month later
15 days later
8 days later

get me your email address and I will send you along the firmware for the anycubic with some simple instructions

i Sent you the firmware. If you do not have the Arduino SDK on your system make sure you have the latest Arduino SDK installed.

Once that is installed you can click on the marlin file in the marlin folder when you unzip it and it will load into the Arduino SDK. There will be a bunch of tabs, the tab to refine your zheight and pretty much all of your other parameters is configuration.h. you plug your printer into your pc. In the arduino SDK under tools select your board it is Atmega2560 then under port select your com port your printer is connected to. You can now click the circle with the arrow on it just under the edit button to upload the firmware to your printer

Thanks again. LCD is great but still cannot get the printer to go to home because the arms veer off into the side and almost hits the belts if I do not use the emergency stop.

Can you email me a pic of your wiring to your ramps board, sounds like you may have something wired backwards. I can take a look and advise you. It could be a end stop switch or a motor

19 days later
3 months later

I’m getting the same LCD screen error that you are. My steppers work fine just my LCD screen won’t display anything besides the two white lines like your’s did.

What did you do to solve this problem? Was it just a firmware problem?

One of two issues, if you don’t have the smartlcd enabled in your configuration.h settings then enable it LCD2004. Or your contrast could be too high, there is a small adjustment screw on the back of your lcd panel near the sd card slot that will lower or raise your contrast

Ok I’ll check the configuation.h settings for the LCD2004. My contrast seems to be ok.

Thanks,

when I get home I will check the marlin files and let you know exactly which it is

I think the section I need too change to define is in this part of the firmware. But I also don’t know if this matches the most current version of Marlin.

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you’re getting volume init error)
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the Ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the UltiPanel as on Thingiverse
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000 // this is the tone frequency the buzzer plays when on UI feedback. ie Screen Click
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100 // the duration the buzzer plays the UI feedback sound. ie Screen Click

Looks like that part of the firmware is already define. What version of the firmware are you using to run yours? I still have the most current one supplied by Anycubic. Are you using a custom setup of Marlin?

14 days later

Well thinking it might have been a broken piece of hardware (the LCD brightness control broke off) I replaced the whole LDC unit with the same type. After replacing I re-uploaded the firmware that AnyCubic has on their Google Doc’ site making sure the

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

was define as needed. But there is no change to the LCD screen it still just displays two while lines. If I enter in commands in the print run it runs fine. I just can’t calibrate it since I can’t see anything on the LCD screen. I’m not sure if there is another way to do the calibration without the screen. I’m still new to all of this.

So you replaced the entire screen and still the exact same issue. It could be one of two other things. If you checked the contrast setting on the LCD which is located on the back of the circuit board near the sd card slot and that is ok then it is something to do with the controller board. Is this your only 3D printer and is it the version of the Anycubic that still uses the Ramps 1.4 and arduino. I did have an LCD go on me about 2 months into owning my third one and I swapped out LCD’s and to still no fix, then I ended up through trial and error swapping out one at a time the ramps and arduino, in the end for me it was an issue with the arduino and replacing it with another $5 off brand arduino fixed the problem

The contrast checked out ok. The board that was sent with the printer as their TriGorilla board. They have me loading up 1.0.6 arduino right now for their firmware.

2 months later

Hey SummersideGuy! Could you please send me the software you are using on your kossel delta on my email as well (bartosz.binczyk@dddruk.pl)? I am also struggling to make the auto-home function work. I would greatly appreciate your help.

1 year later