Generic Kossel Mini (ANY CUBIC) Help!! I figured it out(Solved many months ago)

SummersideGuy · 2016-09-07T19:55:25.000Z

get me your email address and I will send you along the firmware for the anycubic with some simple instructions

Jeanie_Curtis · 2016-09-07T20:00:44.000Z

Thank you very much! I watched your video and my lcd is the same as yours.

my email address is verygreatful@hotmail.com

Jeanie_Curtis · 2016-09-07T20:16:34.000Z

I never got your email yet…hoping to hear from you soon. my email address is in last message. Thanks again. I appreciate any help!

SummersideGuy · 2016-09-07T21:07:01.000Z

Hello Jeanie I emailed you the firmware and a couple of things to do with it

kibodwin · 2016-09-10T11:25:13.000Z

Hi SummersideGuy,

I too would like this firmware and config as well as the setup info. If you could send to kidispo@hotmail.com that would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Ki.

SummersideGuy · 2016-09-10T14:26:34.000Z

i Sent you the firmware. If you do not have the Arduino SDK on your system make sure you have the latest Arduino SDK installed.

Once that is installed you can click on the marlin file in the marlin folder when you unzip it and it will load into the Arduino SDK. There will be a bunch of tabs, the tab to refine your zheight and pretty much all of your other parameters is configuration.h. you plug your printer into your pc. In the arduino SDK under tools select your board it is Atmega2560 then under port select your com port your printer is connected to. You can now click the circle with the arrow on it just under the edit button to upload the firmware to your printer

Jeanie_Curtis · 2016-09-11T02:43:47.000Z

Thanks again. LCD is great but still cannot get the printer to go to home because the arms veer off into the side and almost hits the belts if I do not use the emergency stop.

SummersideGuy · 2016-09-11T03:37:04.000Z

Can you email me a pic of your wiring to your ramps board, sounds like you may have something wired backwards. I can take a look and advise you. It could be a end stop switch or a motor

KrazyNDN · 2016-09-30T23:53:45.000Z

Looks like this is what I’m struggling with as well. Can you please send me the files and anymore info you may have? grant.sullivan@rocketmail.com

SummersideGuy · 2016-10-01T00:27:10.000Z

Sent

ObjectZero · 2017-01-10T18:12:19.000Z

I’m getting the same LCD screen error that you are. My steppers work fine just my LCD screen won’t display anything besides the two white lines like your’s did.

What did you do to solve this problem? Was it just a firmware problem?

SummersideGuy · 2017-01-10T19:03:20.000Z

One of two issues, if you don’t have the smartlcd enabled in your configuration.h settings then enable it LCD2004. Or your contrast could be too high, there is a small adjustment screw on the back of your lcd panel near the sd card slot that will lower or raise your contrast

ObjectZero · 2017-01-10T19:22:57.000Z

Ok I’ll check the configuation.h settings for the LCD2004. My contrast seems to be ok.

Thanks,

SummersideGuy · 2017-01-10T20:12:08.000Z

when I get home I will check the marlin files and let you know exactly which it is

ObjectZero · 2017-01-11T00:02:43.000Z

I think the section I need too change to define is in this part of the firmware. But I also don’t know if this matches the most current version of Marlin.

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you’re getting volume init error)
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the Ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the UltiPanel as on Thingiverse
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000 // this is the tone frequency the buzzer plays when on UI feedback. ie Screen Click
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100 // the duration the buzzer plays the UI feedback sound. ie Screen Click

SummersideGuy · 2017-01-11T00:40:57.000Z

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount\_Smart\_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

the section above is what you are looking for, you want to remove the // in front of the define if it is there

ObjectZero · 2017-01-11T12:13:37.000Z

Looks like that part of the firmware is already define. What version of the firmware are you using to run yours? I still have the most current one supplied by Anycubic. Are you using a custom setup of Marlin?

ObjectZero · 2017-01-25T13:53:52.000Z

Well thinking it might have been a broken piece of hardware (the LCD brightness control broke off) I replaced the whole LDC unit with the same type. After replacing I re-uploaded the firmware that AnyCubic has on their Google Doc’ site making sure the

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

was define as needed. But there is no change to the LCD screen it still just displays two while lines. If I enter in commands in the print run it runs fine. I just can’t calibrate it since I can’t see anything on the LCD screen. I’m not sure if there is another way to do the calibration without the screen. I’m still new to all of this.

SummersideGuy · 2017-01-25T14:25:36.000Z

So you replaced the entire screen and still the exact same issue. It could be one of two other things. If you checked the contrast setting on the LCD which is located on the back of the circuit board near the sd card slot and that is ok then it is something to do with the controller board. Is this your only 3D printer and is it the version of the Anycubic that still uses the Ramps 1.4 and arduino. I did have an LCD go on me about 2 months into owning my third one and I swapped out LCD’s and to still no fix, then I ended up through trial and error swapping out one at a time the ramps and arduino, in the end for me it was an issue with the arduino and replacing it with another $5 off brand arduino fixed the problem

ObjectZero · 2017-01-25T15:01:54.000Z

The contrast checked out ok. The board that was sent with the printer as their TriGorilla board. They have me loading up 1.0.6 arduino right now for their firmware.