I see you have changed your settings since your last post. This is a result of that.
This is backlash, a vibration that occurs in the print after the print head moves. It resonates for a period of time until the print head stops vibrating from a move, and as acceleration begins to take effect.
You did not have this before you changed your print settings, so something that you did in those print settings is causing it.
Most likely, it is a result of making the print head move to a specific point before printing each layer. The print head moves to that spot, then travels to the place where it is going to start the print. The travel feed of your printer is the fastest move, and the print head is still resonating and vibrating after it moves to the layer start position before it begins acceleration.
Since you were not having this issue before you changed your settings, I am going to eliminate mechanical issues as the cause of this “ringing”
If you still want to use inside out and a specific start spot on each layer, you have only two options for resolving this.
1. Print slower. This reduces the ringing and vibration caused by a directional change. This will slow down your overall print time, but will reduce ringing dramatically. The slower you go, the less ringing.
2. Lower the acceleration of your printer. This is a somewhat complicated thing to do, and requires changing the settings in your firmware using replicator G software. If you do this, read the Sailfish Manual first and follow each step exactly, and search the web for forums discussion it.
Perfect and makes perfect sense. Yes, this is the barrel with the blobs! I reloaded the default profile and the blobs stopped (for now) I don’t know why but it seems like it is remembering settings even when you change them. Anyway, I can print slower, no problem there and actually that was my next test.
Would slowing the non print travel help? I can set that I think in S3D also.
Ok, test 1, slowed non print X-Y movement down from 4200 to 1000 and no difference.
Now running at reduced print of base 1000mm/min and 50% outer shell. Almost done.
Watching the preview while printing it is the direction change doing it I am convinced. It goes from the inside ring to the outer with a direction change at the seam and then the outer to the inner with a direction change again at the seam and I can see a similar effect on the inside in the opposite direction from the seam.
This thread is dealing with vertical ringing along the x/y, so I dont want you to come to the wrong conclusions when you apply that to layer height, which has a slightly different effect.
As far as infill at every other layer, this can be good if you are printing under certain circumstances, and at a small enough layer height. When your height to width ratio gets too high, printing every other layer of infill, you can get infill that does not adhere well, making your part weak, or it can become so wispy it does not hold your top layers up well.
But yeah, printing infill at every other layer, and support at every other layer, when it works, is GREAT! (really increases printer time), and I do it for my personal printing sometimes, but not for my professional printing.
So at 1000mm/min it is good, at 1500mm/min it is definitely passable but the ringing is starting.
Slowing the non print XY speed didn’t do anything and I think because it is simply reversing direction and going from inner shell to outer shell (2 shells) so the movement is small but abrupt.
I can try really setting the non print speed to extremely slow and see!
Also I learned about the ratio and I think 1.6 and infill at 3.2 every other is about the limit maybe 1.8 and 3.6.
Yeah, the common wisdom seems to be that you should keep your layer height at 80% or less of nozzle diameter. I personally never go above 50%, even on infill, for reasons above.
It’s a setting that is stored on the board itself. If your board uses EEPROM(and has it enabled) it’s as simple as sending a few gcode commands. If not you would have to re-flash the firmware. Which firmware does your machine use?
I mostly use Marlin and have zero sailfish experience but it looks like the gcode is the same. “M501” will return all the current settings stored on the EEPROM.
FIRST THING you should do is take a screen shot of these setting so you have them as a back up/reference.
In the example above, the jerk is 20. To change it to 15 you would send “M205 X15” and then “M500” to save the changes. If you do not send “M500” after entering any setting, it will not be stored. You should then send another “M501” to verify the changes were made and are correct(a decimal in the wrong place can be a disaster). The jerk settings are kind of subtle unless you make extreme changes(don’t do this). If 10 or 15 doesn’t fix anything don’t try going lower. Regardless, you just got access to some stuff you didn’t know was there. Enjoy.
