Cant get my printer to stay at temperature help!

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T03:44:30.000Z

I Have a flash forge creator pro, i decided to install micro swiss mk10 upgrade kits on the two nozzles, left nozzle can get to 260C and the left only 197C, they cant hold the temperature. did i break the heater cartridge?, or the thermocouple? i checked over the wires and nothing is broken, i get the its been over 5 minutes and it hasn’t heated up so its canceled error when i preheat them, thanks in advance for any input. Is it possible that the thermal paste that i was suppose to put on is too good? when i took the old ones off i didn’t see any paste.

Tom_Hinkley · 2016-07-17T15:44:49.000Z

Hello,

Did you change either thermistor when you changed the nozzles? You can check the thermistors by measuring their resistance at room temperature with a multimeter, they should be about the same.

Kind regards

Tom Hinkley

Ed_Tannenbaum · 2016-07-17T17:58:51.000Z

I think if you put on too much thermal paste and it bridges the tiny gap on the tube that acts as a heat break, it will sink too much heat from the hot end. Try cleaning the tube off with alcohol and a QTip. I put one on my printer and realized this would be a problem if I over did it. Mine holds temp well.

I think heater cartridges fail totally, and an open thermocouple would be pretty obvious causing thermal runaway or other error. Most likely it is a heat sinking problem associated with the thermal grease. Please let me know.

Ed

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T18:49:55.000Z

If all the checks from Ed and Tom don’t work out then try setting both nozzle temperatures to 195 and see if they both get to that temperature. If there is an offset of roughly the same temperature difference when you set both nozzles to 160, then it may be thermistor or software related with firmware. I’ve had my firmware go haywire on me before after both long prints and a cold boot. The software issue is far fetched I know but it shouldn’t be ruled out entirely yet. I wish you good luck and hope to hear back from you soon.

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T19:12:46.000Z

I checked the thermocouple and they are fine,

I removed all of the thermal paste, still no change,

the right extruder slows down around 160C and falls behind 10C to the left one then cant go above 210, the left extruder can go to 250C but really slow, nether can maintain the temperature, they fall 3C short and just stay at 192C,

the lcd pannel is kinda glitchy, missing a random letter once and a while and for a while the printer started up with a blank screen instead of the sailfish info, after I added the new nozzles.

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T19:20:27.000Z

If the thermocouple is good and you removed some thermopaste then it might be software. One last question when you heat the nozzles the issues you have are when they are hearing stationary and not moving right? I notice that with my stock hotness with the Hercules full metal nozzle I can’t get higher than 250 and when the nozzles move while printing they go lower because of the air cooling it down. If the issue is while you are heating before a print then I would say a big finger is pointing towards software. It seems that when your firmware reads the thermocouple reading it’s either not reading it correctly or something wrong with the heating functional in code.

Ed_Tannenbaum · 2016-07-17T19:22:47.000Z

Do you have a stable 24 volts from the power supply? Are the power leads from the supply tight? Were you getting display glitches before the hot end changeover? Have you tried using one extruder at a time? It sounds like a current issue now (no pun intended).

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T19:24:47.000Z

Just thought about another test you could try; try moving the thermocouple wire while taking a reading with your multimeter at the end that connects to the motherboard. Check to see if there is no break in the wire that may cause the thermocouple to disconnect every time it is moved. I know my x axis homing switch had the same issue and couldn’t find the problem until I tested the connector that connects to the motherboard and move the sensor wire. Find the issue and it was an easy solder job. I’ll be waiting for your response

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T19:26:29.000Z

Good point I didn’t think o ask about whether his firmware was glitching before or after the change. Nice catch!

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T19:28:28.000Z

Also can you provide us with the sailfish version you are running I’ll check the changelogs to see if a newer firmware fixed a problem like you are having

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T19:30:54.000Z

Sailfish F CreatorX
-------------------------
Thing 32084 14/11/05
Sailfish v7.7 r01234

That’s what the panel says.

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T19:39:05.000Z

all connections are sound. solid 24v
It can heat the bed and both extruders all at once, the bed works fine, and the extruders heat the same way if you do either of the three or all of them.

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T19:50:18.000Z

Ok so you have the latest stable release. There is apparently 7.8 version released but it hadn’t been widely adopted yet so wouldn’t recommend upgrading unless you really feel the need to. Changelogs don’t mention hotends issues either.

Ed_Tannenbaum · 2016-07-17T19:54:09.000Z

Are the set screws tight on the heaters? Unrelated, but were there display glitches before the changeover? The loose wire while printing theory is good.

I have an extra fan to cool the part that also tends to cool the extruder. Are you using one?

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T19:59:12.000Z

I wiggled the wires like crazy on the thermocouple and they are fine.

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T20:00:38.000Z

Only after I change nozzles is when the panel went strange, but the panel appears to have fixed itself now.

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T20:01:03.000Z

I don’t have an extra fan

Kumori_Myou · 2016-07-17T20:04:03.000Z

all screws are tight!

pbprinting · 2016-07-17T20:16:43.000Z

Hmm that is strange… The only thing I can think of is that the extruder with the lower temp is not getting the same amount of current to heat the hot end. That’s the only other thing I can think of. I mean the wires are good your getting correct voltage. The thermocouples are tested. Only other thing other than firmware is the current going to the hot end. If you can check the current that would be something else we can rule out. I don’t think they go over the 10 amp max on most amp meters so my suggestion is test the current on both and compare to see if they are both in the same ball park. Do this especially at around the 195 degree threshold when the faulty nozzle doesn’t heat more.

BrainHangar · 2016-07-17T20:24:16.000Z

Did you update the power supply? You may not have enough watts now. I think you can do that upgrade with a 220watt, my 120 can barely hold the temp on both nozzles and plate simultaneously.