Howdy, first… Don’t let it get you, it is a machine and you are only human. No problem, you can do this! First, get some blue painters tape and try that… Cheapest way to test and easy to replace. (or you mess around with generic auqanet hair spray but I avoid sprays) As for leveling, I use a regular sheet of paper but I also print a skirt of 5 rows about 5 mm from my prints and give a manual adjustment because I have a removable bed and I have to adjust it every time I remove it. Also, make sure the leveling is done with bed warmed up if you print with a warm bed because glass will change shape. (also you are assuming it is flat, and it’s from an old window, so may not actually be flat!) Also, The curling part at the start is just static attraction and the filament when it starts, very normal, you just gotta get it off before you print. What software are you using? My S3D (no, not a requrement…) starts a print over the edge of the bed and extruded a chunk of filament that eventually pulls the curled part that happens at the start, off my nozzel and off the bed. That is in the startup script, and can be found if you need… I just don’t have it now on my phone. Hope this helps some… Don’t give up!
Every comment is correct accept for one thing. While yes you must have something on the bed for adhesion with ABS and the manufacture says the printer will print ABS. You should not for safety sake use ABS on this brand of printer without first upgrading the inside controller board with an Mosfet board. I have burned up two Di3’s (one nearly caught fire). The onboard Mosfet is not designed to maintain temps above 190c for extended periods of time. Even 190c is pushing the envelope. Look in the hub there are easy to follow instructions for doing the upgrade and it requires no solder. It you are smelling any odd odors coming from your control box stop while using your printer turn it off immediately and call whom you bought it from to ask for an exchange. This may mean you have already caused serious damage to your controller board.
BTW some of your issues with the nozzle may have been a clog from when you had misleveled it and it scraped up material into the nozzle end.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the encouragement. What’s the best way to get that initial drip off before printing? I use a stiff card and just kinda scrape it off (usually works, sometimes pushes it more against the nozzle). If there’s enough hanging I chance using my fingers. Said “ouch” once or twice, but no real harm done.
I will probably try hairspray first. The skirt definitely looks like it should help (I said “brim” in my OP, but I meant “skirt”). As you see in my first vid, it didn’t work (not to say I will stop doing that! it still is a good idea)
I don’t even know how, yet, to make changes like this. There’s a menu called PID, but I don’t know what it’s for and am not going to mess with it until I do.
Yup, lots of reading, youtube watching. I am so happy with how eager to help and share the community is (just look at all these responses in less than a day!).
Definitely getting that feeler gauge! Thanks!
During the auto-level, the LCD says to level so the nozzle is 1 mm away from the plate. I know now that’s not correct, but for my first few prints I didn’t. I didn’t have anything 1 mm and I was impatient to print. So I used the spatula (0.7 mm). I printed the unicorn that came with the SD card, and it turned out fine - right out of the box. Weird.
Thanks! My two new friends: trial and error 
Also, I wasn’t clear in the OP, but I’m using PLA.
Thanks! I guess I should build an enclosure. Is that to prevent drafts from messing with the temperatures? How much of a difference do you find it makes?
Thanks! I guess I should build an enclosure. Is that to prevent drafts from messing with the temperatures? How much of a difference do you find it makes?
Thank you everyone for your advice. I have a new hope (“Help me Obi Wanhao, you’re my only hope”). Got some playing around to do over the next couple of days. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Update: using 0.1 mm paper to level has, I believe, provided the most benefit. I also started using hairspray and increased the bed temp.
I now can reliably print! I can actually start a print and walk away, knowing it’ll be good. THANK YOU!
The only failed print I’ve had was a very tall model (Z-Alignment by LynchMob_Lerry - Thingiverse 7). I printed both a skirt and a raft, but about half-way up the raft started to curl then separate. Maybe a wider raft; maybe more hairspray. At least now I can tweak instead of hitting instant failure out of the gate.
Good to have you back. 3D printing takes a lot of patience and skills. I also have a Wanhao i3 that I almost gave up on, wanted to sell it on FB groups. My issues were changing/feeding filaments with the stock extruder which made it easier after upgrading to Micro Swiss nozzle and heater block kit. Then there was the bed adhesion issue, solved by proper leveling using guage/paper and sometimes using Tape. Another one was the quality of the print… Always a mess, prints look horrible, this one solved by switching to S3D. Right now, it has printed a Jade Riffle (myminifactory) and I consider it my top 2 printer at home amongst my other 5 printers in terms of quality. ? Every problem has a solution, it doesn’t have always to be the same but there’s always going to be a workaround.
I use a Maker Select V2 which is the same thing rebranded as the Wanhao i3. I’d suggest you switch to an all metal hot end. From my experience it’s easier than dealing with that liner tube. Also, after awhile of printing with it I had trouble with the gear slippage on the extrusion motor which was fixed with taking it apart and putting some threadlocker on the locking grub nut that holds it in place (be careful with the spring!) Just something to look out for.
From the videos I agree with the people on here that said you need some gluestick or net hair spray on your glass bed. That is what looks like might be a problem, the filament is curling and getting stuck on the nozzle and not adhering. Once you have printed a bit you won’t need to keep on using hairspray at least I don’t have to, unless I clean the glass thoroughly with rubbing alcohol.
You might have an easier time meticulously leveling one specific area of the bed and moving your prints to that spot instead of the very center of the bed and print testing to see if bed level issues are also creeping in. Or print a calibration circle and tweak the level as it is printing twisting the nuts gently. For that I used to slow down the print speed, before opting for a touch sensor and ramps upgrade.
It can also depend on the filament you are using and possibly the temps too. If you are entry level definitely stick to PLA just because it’s easy and lower temp. When you get into PET and even ABS you have a lot of factors ie ABS hates drafts. It wasn’t until I started using other filament types that I started understanding and really learning all about settings like layer height, extrusion rate. I think that aspect of 3D printing seems daunting, but it really helps understanding those settings, and there are great YouTube videos, Reddit posts and the like to help you in figuring it all out. Keep at it, don’t give up, we are all rooting for you and here to help!