If thatâs ABS then I believe your heatbed should be hotter (also as a note, ABS doesnât usually print well with open air printers).
Make sure your extruder is set to the temp is should for the ABS filament youâre using. Some vary in recommended temperature.
I honestly think the default print surface is way better than glass or tape or pretty much anything apart from maybe PEI.
Try printing with a brim instead of a skirt and perhaps try printing a bit slower till you start getting solid prints again.
Also idk what slicer youâre using or the profile youâre using for that slicer, but I recommend Cura 2.5 or Simplify3D, try searching the internet for profiles people have already had success with. I recently got a Cocoon create Touch which is a Wanhao Dublicator i3 Plus rebrand and I have been comfortably using the default Cocoon create Touch default profile. They keep updating their website links since itâs new but this link should have profiles for ABS and PLA: http://support.winplus.com.au/hc/en-us/articles/115002537203-CURA-Profiles-for-the-Cocoon-Create-Touch-HE161192
Going back one tab will take you to more information like filament temps, manuals, gcode sames etcâŠ
Hope this info helps 
You bed temps are way to low for abs.
Hotbed: 90 - 95 C for abs
Nozzle: ~245 C
Print adhesion requires you to play around with some simple stuff. First make sure itâs a good surface for adhesion. There are a million ideas on what that means. I still use the stick on surface that came with mine. Second experiment with temps. Hot bed temp and nozzle temp adjustments make a huge difference for surface adhesion play around ±10C layer.
Havenât seen you switch out filaments? Have you tried a different brand?
I think you should start with PLA and get a hang of the settings. i.e leveling, quality, etc then move to ABS.
ABS needs hi-temp + optional ABS glue/slurry to get the first layer stick to the bed, PLA doesnât 60 bed temp would be enough.
Try HATCHBOX 1.75 PLA and see if it works out then itâs ABS filament.
For the nozzle yours should be ok as far the video shows but the best ones out there are Micro Swiss Mk10 All Mâetal Hotend Upgrade Kit
That doesnât need PTFE tubing at all and also makes it easier to insert filaments. I the stock one was the worst.
Also did you took the buildtak surface on your bed?
I will certainly try reducing the speed and increasing temperature. Youâre right, the videos do not show it but the fan is indeed off.
I could try different filaments. But this one Iâve printed a lot with before the mysterious something happened.
Also, although I mentioned I heated to ABS temperature, I am using PLA made by Inland.
I will order the Micro Swiss hotend. I like the fact itâs all metal, and one video I watched said it lets you print at higher temperatures, opening the door to other materials. Looks like itâs worth the upgrade.
I thought I had damaged the original buildtak surface. It was certainly after I gouged it the problems started. I first replaced it with the spare that came with the printer (way easier to remove and clean than Iâve read). When that didnât solve the problem I switched to glass.
I should have been clearer in my post: Iâm using PLA. The picture I took was after pressing the preheat button for PLA - it got up to 54°C and my thermometer read 50.8°. I tried at various temps and found the thermometer read 3-4° lower than what the printerâs LCD tells me. That was the point I was trying to make. The actual gcodes heated higher (Iâll have to look them up)
As for slicer: Iâve used mostly Slic3r. Iâve tried Cura but found it a bit more difficult. Also, many videos Iâve tried to follow used Slic3r, so using it made it easier to follow.
I canât wait to try calibration tests - I just canât get past the first layer or two right now. Although Iâve not varied the flowrate - Iâll give that a try.
I thought Wanhao fixed this. I just bought the printer a week ago (although it could be old stock - I should check the serial).
In any event, Iâm not using ABS yet. When I do, I will certainly be careful.
Thanks for the encouragement. Whatâs the best way to get that initial drip off before printing? I use a stiff card and just kinda scrape it off (usually works, sometimes pushes it more against the nozzle). If thereâs enough hanging I chance using my fingers. Said âouchâ once or twice, but no real harm done.
I will probably try hairspray first. The skirt definitely looks like it should help (I said âbrimâ in my OP, but I meant âskirtâ). As you see in my first vid, it didnât work (not to say I will stop doing that! it still is a good idea)
I donât even know how, yet, to make changes like this. Thereâs a menu called PID, but I donât know what itâs for and am not going to mess with it until I do.
Yup, lots of reading, youtube watching. I am so happy with how eager to help and share the community is (just look at all these responses in less than a day!).
Definitely getting that feeler gauge! Thanks!
During the auto-level, the LCD says to level so the nozzle is 1 mm away from the plate. I know now thatâs not correct, but for my first few prints I didnât. I didnât have anything 1 mm and I was impatient to print. So I used the spatula (0.7 mm). I printed the unicorn that came with the SD card, and it turned out fine - right out of the box. Weird.
Thanks! My two new friends: trial and error
Also, I wasnât clear in the OP, but Iâm using PLA.
Thanks! I guess I should build an enclosure. Is that to prevent drafts from messing with the temperatures? How much of a difference do you find it makes?
Thanks! I guess I should build an enclosure. Is that to prevent drafts from messing with the temperatures? How much of a difference do you find it makes?
Will do. Lots of good suggestions here. Thank you.!
That seems to be the consensus. How long does an application of 3DLac last?
Thank you everyone for your advice. I have a new hope (âHelp me Obi Wanhao, youâre my only hopeâ). Got some playing around to do over the next couple of days. Iâll let you know how it goes.
Update: using 0.1 mm paper to level has, I believe, provided the most benefit. I also started using hairspray and increased the bed temp.
I now can reliably print! I can actually start a print and walk away, knowing itâll be good. THANK YOU!
The only failed print Iâve had was a very tall model (Z-Alignment by LynchMob_Lerry - Thingiverse). I printed both a skirt and a raft, but about half-way up the raft started to curl then separate. Maybe a wider raft; maybe more hairspray. At least now I can tweak instead of hitting instant failure out of the gate.
Good to have you back. 3D printing takes a lot of patience and skills. I also have a Wanhao i3 that I almost gave up on, wanted to sell it on FB groups. My issues were changing/feeding filaments with the stock extruder which made it easier after upgrading to Micro Swiss nozzle and heater block kit. Then there was the bed adhesion issue, solved by proper leveling using guage/paper and sometimes using Tape. Another one was the quality of the print⊠Always a mess, prints look horrible, this one solved by switching to S3D. Right now, it has printed a Jade Riffle (myminifactory) and I consider it my top 2 printer at home amongst my other 5 printers in terms of quality. ? Every problem has a solution, it doesnât have always to be the same but thereâs always going to be a workaround.
I use a Maker Select V2 which is the same thing rebranded as the Wanhao i3. Iâd suggest you switch to an all metal hot end. From my experience itâs easier than dealing with that liner tube. Also, after awhile of printing with it I had trouble with the gear slippage on the extrusion motor which was fixed with taking it apart and putting some threadlocker on the locking grub nut that holds it in place (be careful with the spring!) Just something to look out for.
From the videos I agree with the people on here that said you need some gluestick or net hair spray on your glass bed. That is what looks like might be a problem, the filament is curling and getting stuck on the nozzle and not adhering. Once you have printed a bit you wonât need to keep on using hairspray at least I donât have to, unless I clean the glass thoroughly with rubbing alcohol.
You might have an easier time meticulously leveling one specific area of the bed and moving your prints to that spot instead of the very center of the bed and print testing to see if bed level issues are also creeping in. Or print a calibration circle and tweak the level as it is printing twisting the nuts gently. For that I used to slow down the print speed, before opting for a touch sensor and ramps upgrade.
It can also depend on the filament you are using and possibly the temps too. If you are entry level definitely stick to PLA just because itâs easy and lower temp. When you get into PET and even ABS you have a lot of factors ie ABS hates drafts. It wasnât until I started using other filament types that I started understanding and really learning all about settings like layer height, extrusion rate. I think that aspect of 3D printing seems daunting, but it really helps understanding those settings, and there are great YouTube videos, Reddit posts and the like to help you in figuring it all out. Keep at it, donât give up, we are all rooting for you and here to help!