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24 results for@zx81 #3d-printers
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Dec '16
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Doesn't look like that board is readily available, you could use one of those all in one ramps boards you find on eBay there about £35+ (make sure it c...
Feb '16
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I actually thought about doing this myself but then decided against it, as you would probably need to ether get one huge custom made heat pad (silicone...
Jul '16
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If your having trouble removing them and you don't have access to a press / workshop … find a small threaded rod (like the 5mm ones prusa i3's used to...
Jun '16
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Hi all I'm thinking of building a CoreXY printer, I already have a Prusa i3 aluminium (which was a kit) and I built a P3Steel about a year ago, which i...
Dec '16
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The threaded rods are on flexible couplers so it's ok for them to move, however the two smooth rods should be perfectly straight… if one as you say is...
Oct '16
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M92 should adjust the steps per mm Quick and dirty method for adjusting your extruder steps… issue a M501 command - note the number (e-steps) Take numb...
Jan '17
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That's one solution… But personally I Use octoprint not only can you use a webcam to view you can also monitor temperature and stop it if necessary
Dec '16
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good advice above you can also use a glue stick or pva glue (just put a small dod in the middle of your bed and use something flat to spread a thin lay...
Nov '16
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I did something similar but to keep the heat in rather than for filtration, you can usually find some pretty Large storage boxes in the supermarket, I...
Dec '16
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I wouldn't worry too much about it pryrex (brand name) or borosilicate is preferred … in the early days we just used any piece of glass could find usua...
Dec '16
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Can't you just print one ?
Dec '16
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Sounds like your extruder motor is going in the wrong direction … unplug the cable and turn it round or change the direction in firmware
Dec '16
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Looks like a clip for holding the bearing to the y axis / bed gantry ? You should be able to find a better design that's compatible on thingiverse http...
Dec '16
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Hi all Just wanting to pick your collective brains. I'm building my own custom 3D printer it is a CoreXY design the CoreXY part I have all sorted and t...
Oct '16
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When I read that I thought to myself sounds like the printer is waiting for the bed or hotend to reach temperature. It's easy enough to fix but your go...
Oct '16
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Did you configure marlin? You will need to set up your bed temp sensor, your hot end sensor, end stops (normally open/ normally closed?!), Homing direc...
Jul '16
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Well there are a few things that could go wrong. The thermistor has died: simple enough to check, if you know what type is you can get the datasheet an...
Jun '16
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Position 0 on a cartisian printer is usual the front left corner of the heated bed (x, y at position 0) I for wiring reasons have my x limit on the rig...
May '16
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You could try setting the bed temperature waiting till it heats up then heat the hotend. When they reach temperature start printing, you will want to r...
May '16
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Have you tried dailing the temp down? Correct thermistor selected in the firmware? Contactless thermometers detect infrared light for there temperature...
Aug '15
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I've only seen reviews and videos of the printbot simple but it does look good, however I own 2 prusa i3's the first is the alloy framed i3 with a lot...
Feb '16
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It looks like delamination are you using a enclosed printer? Changes in temperature / draughts can cause layers to split. You might also want to try lo...
Aug '15
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Have you just started using the white filament ? have you measured and checked the diameter of the filament updated the filament diameter in the settin...
Sep '15
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you could do that but that's a bad way of testing your endstops! send a M119 command to the printer and it will return the endstop status you can test...