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Now that is also very true. I’m usually happy with the Microcenter filament EXCEPT: 1. Silver. Silver always jams after 2 hours
2. Gold. Not sure what the issue is, but their gold is brittle…
So I get those from Amazon, and the other colors (including GITD) from Microcenter.
Oh. Another thing I… -
Oh… and I forgot. If you’re using an all-metal hotend, you need the fan to cool it (despite what CobbleBot says)… otherwise, heat will travel up the heatsink and you will have an inevitable clog in ~4-6 hours… and it’s a nasty clog – a cold pull won’t work (you can’t feed anything in); you have to …
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I used to use oil, but now I use a coat of WS2 or HBN dry-lube. This coat lasts for over 100 hours run time (usually something else has gone wrong, so I re-lube when I have to correct for model coming off bed and jamming fans. http://www.atl-3d.com/extruder-dry-lube/
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Out of curiosity, why are you using HIPS? I’ve found: PLA - Best dimensional accuracy, but shatters ABS - Tougher, can warp a bit. Wears better than PLA. Nylon - Really tough, tends to warp. I swear by Taulman. HIPS - Nice dimensionally, nice quality, and ABS/PLA stick to it. But brittle… I go…
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Nevermind… looks like they made an upgrade! Now to print one for my KS Robo3D…
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Be sure to blow out the dust with canned air, and I remove the hobbed bolt and attack it with a wire brush (or a file card or a razor blade) to get all the plastic out of the teeth. Mine kept doing that after ~4 hours, so I replaced my bolt with one from eBay and it seems much better (still not sure…
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PS. I recommend replacing the 2 Phillips head bolts that hold the hotend in place with socket-head-capscrews (Allen bolts) – available at McMaster or Home Depot. Trying to worm out a stripped head is really annoying.
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To reiterate - pull back on the extruder idler to release it from the motor. If you’re getting a hang after 3", it sounds like you need to unscrew the springs on the idler so you can get the filament out (it sounds like there’s a molten ball at the end of the filament that doesn’t want to go between…
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It’s on the high end, like nylon and ABS… If you have a grooved insulator tube, your chances are better. If you go from bed heat to head heat to print (not the other way around), your chances also go up… Otherwise heat will travel up the filament and melt the ptfe tube.
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I kept killing the PTFE tube trying to print ABS (it does work, but it has to go from heating->printing->cooling without delay and my bed was taking its sweet time heating, so heat made it up from the nozzle to the PTFE tube and…), so now I replaced it. You can probably prevent failures by adding a …
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I finally started getting my website up and running; one of the posts deals with the different hairsprays I use: PLA Bed Adhesion | Atlanta3D (L’oreal Elnett FTW. Soemtimes it chips the glass
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Use fans on, maybe increase your “minimum time per layer”. If you have a heated bed, make sure it’s turned down (60c gets too hot… I keep mine @40C for PLA). Try different filament – each color seems to have it’s own sweet spot. I’ve had issues with MicroCenter Grey and Silver filaments (no matter …
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A heated bed will help a lot, as will using Lóreal elnett hairspray (warning - you may have to immerse the build platform in water/alcohol mix for it to come off, so for most things I use “the big red can” from Big Lots) – I use binder clips and print on a removable glass plate instead of the Robo3D…
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I finally got tired of doing the cold pull manually, so I made some custom (read: short!) g-code for it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:965194 I do that every 5 runs now just because it’s easy.
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The problem for flex feeding is the large gap between the bottom of the hobbed bolt and the entrance to the hole in the extruder frame. Some people put a small metal bushing (from a ball point pen) in the gap. I removed everything and drilled the extruder out so I could put a Teflon Bowden tube from…
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I use a flexible version from Microcenter, but haven’t used Ninjaflex yet on my Robo3D R1. I’ve made some changes so it feeds better, but it can still jam sometimes if I go full speed (60 cm/s). I made a cell phone camera mount (the flex grips the phone), and it turned out neat.
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It can, but it’s a bit oozy. You have to run at 1/4rd speed with the stock arrangement (and it might still jam). I modified mine and have it up to 1/2 speed (at 210c): Remove hotend, remove springs and remove the hobbed bolt Bore through the hotend down the filament path so that a PTFE tube from …
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Some things I’ve discovered in getting R1 up and running: The stock extruder has a Teflon bit in it. If you look at it wrong while trying ABS, it will melt (main reason I upgraded to Hexagon). Every extruder can be helped with a bit of HBn or WS2 lube (good for 2 months or until I jam it for a dif…
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Oh, and if your vertical walls are wavy, check the tension on X&Y belts. They need to be taught; I used a different zip-tie config than stock so I can tension/retension just by tightening the white zip-tie. [2015-08-27 21.04.34.jpg]
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I haven’t yet, but the temperature range seems ok… willing to try if you want…
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Let me know if you get down to Atlanta/Florida… I want to play with the Carbon Fiber…
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Oh… and for the “acetone wash” - to make it more effective (and freaking dangerous, so proceed with caution): 1. Mix 50-50 MEK-Substitute and Acetone (MEK substitute [NOT MEK] works better on PLA). [Not the dangerous part, but makes vapors more easily than pure acetone] 2. Heat the parts before yo…
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For good-quality extruders, it’s a straight bore of ~1.8mm diameter until the last 1mm where it necks down to the desired diameter. For a cheap knockoff, they sometimes have wide spots in the middle (usually they use a brass insert to go “Bowden-less” – and that insert isn’t long enough to go all t…
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My method of unclogging / cleaning between colors is to use nylon (http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning): 1. Heat to 235, extrude 10 mm of nylon ('til the color change and you are dispensing nylon. 2. Reduce heat to 120, fan on, and keep forcing the nylon (slowly) in. It will stop when it gets < 200…
![[2015-08-27 21.04.34.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/b/c/bc33513d45fc81b4e7303116509c5c1345e66281.jpg){kind=link}