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That’s great news Nicholas! Yea, my CTC was a lemon and it’s since been returned - guess I need to mark this a closed! Good luck w/your printer - sounds like you got a good one!
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This is great - thank you - I’d been looking for a pictorial troubleshooting guide for months!
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DH is close - the yellow ring is likely laminated steel ‘choke’ which is meant to ‘absorb’ eddy currents / EMI
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I used SkeinForge 50, SLIC3R and MakerWare for the slicers. I had tried specifying larger filament dia (or lower extruder multiplier in SLIC3R) but at 40+ mm/s speeds But I will do you steps and get back to you with the results, thanks!
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Thanks - I was wondering that - I just thought active cooling shouldn’t be absolutely necessary - esp w/ABS and it’s propensity to warp! I do have a v1 cooler printed just was a bear finding 24v 40mm fan laying around - now I have one - TY for tip! But again, why should I NEED this? Never had to w…
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Hello JP - so here’s the 20MM calibration cube showing the rear-most side - where my problem is! This was done with PLA, RepG 033 & SF 50. It started at 200C but bumped down to 190C 1/2 way through. The HPB is plate glass with blue tape, set to 70 (~30C) so it’d stick. (HAVE to heat bed or PLA will…
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Hi - yes - I tied both - but focus on at temperature as well as differing thicknesses - ‘the paper just dragging’ with regular paper, cardstock and even tried eyeballing it. It sounds like I’m aiming for good consistent ‘squash’ - but I’m finding the bed height to be very inconsistent / repeatable …
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Who would have imagined this? My Solidoodle2 (metal frame) doesn’t seem susceptible to this but it makes absolute sense! I’m esp surprised the mini-mill/lathe exhibit this as well - man - always learning something new - THANKS ALL
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Thanks for the tips! Just to be sure - my HPB reads 40 at room temperature so I have to add 15 degrees to get it in the ballpark - I verified this with my thermometer so a true 90c is the hottest my bed goes (set to 130). Yes, I have been using glass and just got some cut-to-size so I’m excited to …
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oh, yes, 2nt tip not dragging - definitely the active tip that’s dragging (as if bed adherence isn’t hard enough!)
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Great advice! Yea, got the knack of the paper-level so slight drag (at temperature and cool) and try for a squashed 1st layer but the bed leveling doesn’t seem consistent like it moves. I put a 3mm spacer to get the bed springs a little less stressed and the parallelism of HPB-to-arms looks MUCH bet…
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hmm, no idea how to accurately measure the temp. I have a non-contact thermometer so it’s very ‘ballpark-ish’ The rods look straight but never put them on a granite block to see - how much is bad? TY!
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I have Sailfish 7.7 - did not know I could change this mid print - how is that done! TY!