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Another way to accomplish this would be to substitute a fixed resistor for your hot end thermistor. The firmware will see that the hot end is always at high temp and will allow the extruder to operate. The typical thermistor used in hot ends is a 104GT-2. These have a resistance of 100,000 ohms at …
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Are you running Marlin firmware? If so all the necessary settings will be in the configuration.h file. It isn’t quite as simple as just inverting the axis - you must change the X & Y end stop actions as well. Have you done any work with the Arduino development environment?
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Hi, Has your printer printed correctly in the past? The mirror image print can be caused by reversed xy motor connection (or inverted firmware setting). Simple shapes will print fine because they are symmetrical in either direction.
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Hi, there are several possible reasons for your blotchy layer: Try tightening the extruder tensioner. The extruder may not be gripping the filament well enough. Reduce your print speed to around 50mm/s. Although your machine may be quite new you may have a clogged nozzle. Your nozzle temp may be…
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Hi, The heater you reference is a standard Prusa style MK2B PCB heater which can be operated at 12V or 24V, depending on how you wire it. Do NOT print directly on the PCB. You can use glass or aluminum for the build bed. Borosilicate glass is reputedly the best although plain old 3mm window glass w…
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Hi, PLA’s glass transition temperature is somewhat over 60C (140F) so I imagine if your parts are becoming soft, the environmental temp is quite a bit higher than 108F. I don’t think there is a practical way to send parts that may be subjected to extreme temps. Maybe this is a case where you need t…
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Hi, I would like to comment on a couple of things. My disclaimer: I am not familiar with the Cubex and so will avoid any opinions regarding that machine. 1) I have discovered through research and personal experience that ordinary 3mm window glass works just as well as the vastly more expensive boro…
