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Adjust the upper limit switch or check to see if it is loose. You may be able to get a mm or two out of it without touching your nozzles. Or make a temporary shim with taped down washer that will contact the switch while you make a new shim. 3mm_shim.stl (302 KB)
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It might be a good idea to revert back to an older version of Flashprint, if it worked before. You can still download older versions of it from Flashforge’s website. http://www.flashforge.com/support-center/finder/ I know this says the Finder model but it’s still the same software. Probably shoul…
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A resolution is a resolution, welcome to 3D printing! We might as well be dogs the amount of time we spend chasing our tails around. Was glad to read you got this sorted out.
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Are you using default settings from S3D? You get a nice line at the front because extrusion is multiplied. I also turn on Skirt/Brim gives that extra level of certainty that I leveled properly. [medium_abs_s3d.png]
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I use Elmers gluestick on the bed, just a thin layer on my Dreamers, otherwise adhesion is difficult. Trick is that you have to apply the thin layer before the bed reaches 50°C otherwise anything hotter will create cement from the glue. You can also wipe the glue off with a slightly damp cloth once …
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The Guider is a single extruder printer with no heated bed (no dual option either), however, it has auto-leveling and the bed detaches easily from the framework. The new Guider 2 is quite impressive and has a build volume of 11" x10" x12" (280mmx250mmx300mm). I should mention it is not a machine for…
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I am a dealer for Flashforge in Canada and there are no plans to release a newer version of the Creator Pro this year. There is a new Guider, Inventor and DLP printer though.
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Did you build your own slicing profile, or is there a profile already in S3D for Powerspec printers?
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Could be that your toolhead index is mixed up under the extruder tab? I know FFCP that T0 = Right and T1 = Left, perhaps they are different values? Just a thought really.
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3Dprintwiz is probably right about the z axis switch, perhaps it is loose or out of adjustment and just not engaging the frame at the back properly. You could also use the 3mm shim from the glass plate kits, if you still can print on the right side of the bed or have another printer to make one. Goo…
![[medium_abs_s3d.png]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/7/7/77a8af2963bd4bb5a2b7fb04f47856384bb694f4.png){kind=link}