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If you’re printing at 250 have you upgraded your stock hot end to an all metal one? The stock hot end uses a ptfe tube which could melt / warp at those temps contributing to jams. I had same issue printing w petg. Upgrading to all metal hot end solve my issues and only have to print at 236 now. I al…
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Did you add the 4mm z stop shim before adding the glass? The balance screws are only for fine adjustments. See this video: - YouTube
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I cleaned and lubed all smooth rods with white lithium grease. Clicking sound is still coming from around the area of the grey pulley on the left hand side. Will wait from FF support to see what they suggest. Thanks for your suggestions.
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I haven’t lubed the linear bearings in the y axis. What’s the safest lube to use in the linear bear bearings? I used 3 in 1 on my MakerFarm i3 a while back.The sound isn’t coming from the bearings though. Does the x axis have bearings? All I see is a plastic pulley and a tiny axel on both ends. It …
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I’ve been using my FFPro since January and it’s been great. I’ve logged about 700 hrs on it. I’ve recently noticed a tapping or clicking sound while printing. I moved the carriage manually by hand, and the noise only happens when moving in the x axis. Is the belt supposed to be centered on the gear…
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Printing the tips facing up has improved their resolution a lot. There is now warping on the other end, but it’s not as bad as before. I think I need to create a taller helper disk for this part to sit on, to insulate it from the heat bed which is causing this warping. [IMG_5969.JPG]
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What if I flipped the part so the pointed tip faces up? Would that help with the resolution at the very end?
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Ok. Print is done. One of the parts detached from the bed and failed in spectacular fashion, but the rest of the parts might be usable. If I try this again I’ll use helper disks for the part that detached. The warping on the lower layers has reduced a lot with the new settings. The part with a poi…
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Thanks for the awesome tips everyone. I cancelled my print with the split parts. Going to try printing them vertically again. Ditching the ooze shield and print two copies to help w cooling between layers. New print settings: .2 mm 3 shells top, bottom, perimeter raft infill 15% hot end 230C …
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Sorry I forgot the temp specs. 230C hotend. 110C Bed Printing on Mirror Glass using Garnier Fructis #5. I would try .2mm, but my client has asked for .1mm. Will check back with them to see if .2mm is ok.
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Hey everyone, I’m trying to print two narrow parts w ABS and am having issues with the parts warping near the heated bed. My specs: FFPro Simplify 3D .1 layer height 8 shells top, bottom perimeter 80% infill with supports 60 mm/sec (30mm/sec first layer) I printed w an ooze shield to incre…
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I have a FFPro. I use a mirror (5 bucks cut at local glass cutting shop). You don’t need expensive borosilicate glass. I also use hairspray: http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/garnier-fructis-style-utral-strong-hold-flex-ultimate-control-spray-natural-bamboo-extract/6000062243949 . I use the same setup for…
![[IMG_5969.JPG]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/8/1/81dd2ccfc08638d28e1213b23bde064558f69def.JPG){kind=link}