Hey everyone,
I’m trying to print two narrow parts w ABS and am having issues with the parts warping near the heated bed.
My specs:
FFPro
Simplify 3D
.1 layer height
8 shells top, bottom perimeter
80% infill
with supports
60 mm/sec (30mm/sec first layer)
I printed w an ooze shield to increase cooling time between layers of the narrow parts (so hot end doesn’t sped too much time in the same area). I increased infill from 20% to 80% thinking that would help, but I see little improvement in warping near bed. I’m trying a new run this time printing with a raft and splitting the parts in half and printing them on their sides. In theory the raft should raise up the first layers and be better and resisting stress. I dropped infill back to 20% Would appreciate anyone’s tips to make this print better.
The more solid an object is, the higher chance for warping, so you shouldn’t need 80% infill. Also, I’d be interested to figure this out but haven’t, is that I’ve never been able to print .1mm layer height on my FFCP. I can do it on my Taz, but no matter what I do, I can’t get .1mm on my Pro. Try upping to .2mm and see if that helps.
wrbehel
February 26, 2016, 2:43pm
3
What temps are you using? I would use 220C extruder and 95C Bed. I would also use Aquanet Extra super hold Hair spray on the glass.
1 Like
Sorry I forgot the temp specs.
230C hotend.
110C Bed
Printing on Mirror Glass using Garnier Fructis #5 .
I would try .2mm, but my client has asked for .1mm. Will check back with them to see if .2mm is ok.
I would print your cylinder standing up. - http://www.steamlearninglabs.com/blog/2016/2/25/printing-cylinder-with-cartesian-printer
I see you are using a glass bed. Either use hairspray or glue stick or ABS slurry to prep the bed. Whichever works best for you.
Lower the heat on your bed to the until you notice the print detaching from the bed mid print, then raise it by 10 C. I would try 90 C and lower from there.
Use less shells, 2 or 3 should be fine. 20% infill should be fine.
The rough finish on your overhangs is from the previous layer not cooling before the next layer is printed.Try printing a duplicate at the same time, that should give the other one time to cool.
Thanks for the awesome tips everyone.
I cancelled my print with the split parts. Going to try printing them vertically again. Ditching the ooze shield and print two copies to help w cooling between layers.
New print settings:
.2 mm
3 shells top, bottom, perimeter
raft
infill 15%
hot end 230C
bed 95C
1 Like
Ok. Print is done. One of the parts detached from the bed and failed in spectacular fashion, but the rest of the parts might be usable. If I try this again I’ll use helper disks for the part that detached.
The warping on the lower layers has reduced a lot with the new settings.
The part with a pointed tip which is still giving me issues. Anyone have a fix for that? I would try PLA but the client wants this part done in ABS.
In all the photos the parts on the left are printing with the new settings. The parts on the far right are the old settings.
What if I flipped the part so the pointed tip faces up? Would that help with the resolution at the very end?
Printing the tips facing up has improved their resolution a lot. There is now warping on the other end, but it’s not as bad as before. I think I need to create a taller helper disk for this part to sit on, to insulate it from the heat bed which is causing this warping.
