-
Unless they have changed something in the firmware, 32Gig was the max with the Repetier firmware. 64Gig cards are SDXC (extended capacity) and again, to the best of my knowledge, will not work with the i3. Do you have a smaller capacity SD card you can try?
-
Sounds like it thinks it has printed. I had a similar problem a long time ago and it turned out to be a bad SD card. My first pass would be to try another SD card, or format the one you have and give it another try. There are a number of values in the source code that limit the temperature, detect t…
-
I had a look around to see if anyone had done a mod, but, I couldn’t find anything - strange because it does look like a design/engineering issue. Personally, I would draw up a bigger block, that butts up to the frame and/or locks into the slot, tighten the existing block enough to get a print, then…
-
I don’t own i3+, but, as far as I know, the idler block is powder coated steel, so something is bent, broken, or was not welded on straight when it was made. There are a mods for the earlier i3 machines, to stop the idler bracket flexing, but I’ve not seen one bent purely through belt tension. There…
-
What speed are you printing at?
-
In my experience, most filaments will not stick to a clean glass plate, I use 3DLac on mine, but there are other things you can use, such as PVA and some types of hairspray. Regarding clearance, 0.1mm works best for me. For PLA I set the bed temperature to 50C and for ABS I use 100C…
-
Hacking the gcode is probably not trivial but, most slicers will allow you to specify which layer to make the bottom, which would allow you to do what you want.
-
I would concur with bkjones analysis and approach, which should be your first steps, but would add that I had similar problems; constantly having to re-level the bed. After spending some time trying to work out was happening, I changed the Z axis microswitch for a higher quality Omron switch and hav…
-
Looks like the steps per mm are too high, which would explain your oversized prints. These are the settings I use on my Di3 and everything comes out the correct size. 80.0000 X-axis steps per mm 80.0000 Y-axis steps per mm 400.0000 Z-axis steps per mm 10.000 Max. jerk 0.300 Max. Z-jerk
-
I’m not clear on what you are trying to do, but I would guess that you are wanting to pause the print job so you can change to a different filament? If so, Tweak at Z does not do that. For mid-print filament changes, I normally edit the GCODE, but the Pause at Height plugin looks like it may do what…
-
def means the controller board is not getting a valid reading from the thermistor, which can be caused by the thermistor, or the connections to it, being either open or short circuit - the -20C would suggest it is more likely open circuit.
-
I think you will find it is a bad SD card. You can try backing up and deleting everything that is currently on the card, then add your new file and try printing it. It will probably work OK, but even if it does, I would recommend getting yourself a good quality replacement microSD card.
-
Taulman Alloy 910 would be my choice. Shore hardness 85D, low friction (Nylon based), and just enough flexibility to allow it to be fitted into the racket. It can also be colour dyed with Dylon or Rit if you want nice colours. It does need a much higher temperature to print than most standard deskt…
