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Yes, the mosfets are not current rated high enough. Seems like a duplicate issue as this guy:
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Yes, the mosfets are not current rated high enough. I replaced all mine with nds351an mosfets. Watch out for pin out, I think I had to install “dead bug” mode but I cant recall. I cant recall the part# of the original mosfet, but here is a link to the NDS on Digikey (also available at Mouser): http…
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Hi marvins_dad, This was all a long road of failures that seemed to converge at once. I got it together and working great and then the wiring failed for the second time after doing a repair. This time I replaced the whole cable set with fresh cables from Makerbot. It is working better than ever now…
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Anyone try this yet? I took a chance and thinned a jar of thick stuff I had using a half capfull of paint thinner, shook it hard, then refiltered twice through a coffee filter! (Very slow) Resin is now sooo smooth! I havent tested in the printer yet but did some drip tests in my UV lightbox and it’…
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I’d also be interested in a review of this resin for Pegasus printers. The FSL version seems too thick for it’s own good. It was so viscous it picked up the SuperVat and spilled resin all over it’s inards. Took 2 days to clean. A thinner resin would be better. I took a chance and thinned the stuff I…
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Maybe time to replace the nozzle and/or heat break? When was the last time you replaced either of them? The heat barrier loses lubricant internally over time and can cause greater resistance during extrusion. Some people took a (no lint) cloth and some mineral oil and lubricated the filament which w…
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With my new Tecto hot-end upgrade, I just had a case where the temp readout was steady at 27degC but the hot-end was pushing almost 300degC!! I wasn’t really paying close attention when the nozzle started smoking. I immediately stopped preheat and began pushing the filament through manually to bring…
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FYI I solved the heat creep issues by replacing the fans/heat-sinks with water cooling using a Koolance CPU cooling unit. Works great, mounting bar stabilizes at 43degC over hours of printing. More info at:
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Doesnt seem like anyone is interested, but for the sake of history the water cooling is working great! I ran a 6 hour print and mounting bar stayed at a cool 43degC with dual extrusion running - no more heat creep. New water cooling unit is quiet and very smooth! Word to the wise, if you do this yo…
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That may affect the torque though. As for the Gecko driver I have a G540 lying around…I will give it a shot over the Christmas holidays and report back. I am still iterating on my water-cooled hot ends…it’s working great!
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That makes me wonder (again) what a pro-level stepper controller would do then. Something like Gecko drives. I switched from a L293 type (plain) stepper driver to Gecko drives on my CNC machine and the difference was night and day. It even sounded so much quieter and smoother. I think the Makerbot s…
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Youtube video: [img_1457_1.jpg]
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I started having heat creep issues trying to print and water cooling was my last ditch effort to get over the problem and maybe…just maybe…have it work better than ever. Conclusion, it worked awesome! First successful dual print in years. The mounting bar stabilized around 45degC. I melted two cold…
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Very nice! So gearing in the extruder is enough to create the little bumps? I figured it had more to do with retraction and layer starts.
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I would like to ask a favor, could someone who has a 2X and a IR or temp probe measure the temps of their head unit after a half hour of printing? I am curious how other units heat up. Something must be different from when my Replicator did work (for 12h prints!). I would be most curious what the Al…
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So I had a thought that if heat creep is causing the issues I should go back to a print that only uses 1 head, that way I only have 1 nozze+stepper generating heat instead of two. I do make it farther but eventually the head still heats up to the same level as before (110degC on carriage/mountingblo…
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Wow! That is a jam.
What I can see with mine is that the filament is flattened, that’s why I suspect heat creep primarily. I.e. the filament softens due to the heat and the new extruder upgrades applying more gripping force. It may also be partly because of over-extrusion though too. I have measure… -
Thanks Robert. I will give that a try! Here are the settings, looks like my Retraction distance is high (I never touched these settings btw): Retraction Distance: 1.3mm Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s Restart Speed: 25 mm/s Extra Restart Distance: 0.00 mm Extra Restart Speed: 25 mm/s While I am at i…
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Correct. I dont see the label.
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Printing ABS at 230, HIPS at 250. Build plate at 110. The printer started air printing after many good prints, wasnt after a disassembly. I have had it apart before then many times for simple maintenance. Disassembly and reassembly wasn’t anything new for me. The Rep2X as they say is an “experiment…
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Hi all, My Rep 2X will print the raft (HIP) and about 3 layers of the part before air printing. Post investigation it seems like heat creap is softening the material until it flattens and either doesnt grip the stepper or goes down into the nozzle and jams because it’s too wide. Raft always complet…
![[img_1457_1.jpg]](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/uploads/db5060/original/3X/9/9/994cb7cfeb1e6043b731a5aaa748e24e33425c54.jpg){kind=link}