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what voltage is this one? You definitely need the fan to keep the top of the extruder tube chilled and prevent jamming from what is called “Heat Creep”. You need a 12V fan to make it work.
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I run my pla anywhere from 205-215 depending on speed of print, brand and a few other factors on my Prusa i3 Mk3. Try the higher temp to see if the print completes and then we can back it down a bit. That will rule out that as an issue.
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I am also assuming you are running PLA plastic? Plastic type is important as they all melt at different temperatures (PLA being one of the lowest).
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198C is an odd exact temperature. Set your slicer to 215C, re-slice, and upload. See if that allows the print to finish. 198 can work but without knowing a ton of other parameters you are using it is on the very low side.
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What temp are you running the plastic at and what type of plastic? Is the Cocoon Bowden or direct feed? Is there a tension adjustment knob for the filament pinch wheel?
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Sounds like a nozzle jam (back flow into your nozzle) usually caused by the nozzle being to close to the print bed during the first layer print.
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You should be able to generate one and then export as an STL. The issue is it’s kind of trial and error to get it the right thickness and resolution to get a good image depending on what plastic, color, and type of colorant pigment was used in the plastic; as well as the backlight you intend to use.…
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Do you have your own printer? If so, have you used Cura for slicing? You can drag and drop an image directly into Cura to produce a lithophane and play with the settings until you get it the way you want. (Mainly thickness which controls the amount of light that passes through to create gray scal…
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Agreed that is what it should look like, I have one of these printers. I meant the Op to post a pic of their printer to see what issue they think they have and how to current it.
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Upload a picture of what you are talking about
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No, a MAC will work perfectly fine with the printer. Remember it will show up as a serial port; same on a windows or Linux computer. I run mine from an RaspPi under Linux and OctoPi. You will not see the SD Card that’s in your printer when you plug in the USB cable. Your not hosed that you lost the…
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Communication with MAC and “images” to SD card are not being seen by the printer? Need more information. The wanhoa i3 will accept sliced 3D objects in .gcode format placed on an SD card from your MAC and plugged into the side of your i3 controller box or front of printer (depending on the version i…
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Where is your limit switch located on the Z axis. Sounds like it is not set right to allow you print head to lower any further before being stopped by the limit switch. Also, are you missing any of the stack up items that sometimes goes on the heated bed. 2 inches off the bed at the start sounds li…
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If you recently swapped types of plastic, did you purge the one completely out at its temp with the replacement? (I.e. switch from ABS to PLA you purge with the PLA at 235 until the color of the PLA coming out shows no signs of the ABS and then drop the temp to 220. )
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Sounds like under extrusion. Can be the tension on the extruder stepper pinch wheels, wrong temp setting for the plastic, but more likely just a clogged tip. If this is a Teflon lined extruder throat, then the Teflon could be damaged causing extra resistance/ friction.
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Sounds like you have a short occurring which resets the system. Turn on the bed and extruder and move the platform around the center point a bunch and see if you can get it to reset. If it does, turn off the bed heater and repeat. If the reset tops the bed wires may be shorting. If still resetting, …
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The reboot is odd. To different slicers would not generate gcode with the same error causing a reboot. You try and reflash the aurduino. Is this firmware you configured, compiled and uploaded to the arduino?
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Did you try slicing a different object? There could be an issue with the STL preventing from completely slicing. Could be an error in the GCode file throwing off the printer from continuing. Did you at least re-slice the same file to make sure it was not just a poor slice. It could also be your setu…
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Wish I was closer. The best way to get a good building scan is to use a flying camera on a “drone”. You take upwards of 50 photos or more up, around and over the building. Then with specialized software (some freeware available also) you stitch together all the photos and it converts to a 3d scan ba…
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Mendel. I’ve built 2 and they’re great with threaded rod. Done right, they are amazingly accurate. You can obviously print the parts you can and have someone on 3DHubs print you the bigger ones for a couple bucks. The mendels are better for the threaded rod because the a-frame design helps keep it …
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Assuming it’s premade harnesses we can assume the wiring is correct. Why are you charging firmware from what came with it? Does the opto have an led indicator on it? If so, and it’s wired correctly, insert a piece of paper in the opto gate with the controller board on and connected and the LED shoul…
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Homemade printer or store bought kit? Opto or switch type endstop?
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In Configuration.h search for: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 But it seams like your X is going the wrong way so: #define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INV…
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Actually, my method is not a cold pull as I wouldn’t suggest a cold pull all the time. Cold pulls can be good to help clear a jam in a clogged nozzle if you don’t want to replace the nozzle. My method is a hot pull as I suggest letting the filament get to full temp, start the load process to purge t…
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First off when it is working correctly. Please the printhead into a feed in mode as if your loading filament and allow a bit of filament to come out. Leave it feeding and squeeze the trigger on the appropriate side and pull out the filament as quick as you can. This insures the majority of the filam…
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Is the lead screw going to float on 1 side. Getting the alignment of that and your guide rails can cause binding if you don’t get everything perfectly aligned. Also, have you calculated the positional accuracy for the normal resolution of a stepper and the thread count per inch? I know it is good en…
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I agree generally with those settings. 100deg bed and 245 on the stock MK10 nozzle. No cooling fan on unless it drops below a certain print speed or for bridging. (Because of the way the stock MK10 is designed, you need 10deg hotter then the highest print temp and you need the highest print temp to …
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Looks awesome, nice work.
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Yup, "support infill angles "
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Love flying FPV and quads. Let’s taggup. IM me through thingiverse and we will exchange information. Thanks
