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Good morning, The one thing you didnt tell us was if you had supports turned on or not? For the purposes of testing, turn supports off and try the print at 10 % infill. Unfortunately, experimenting is the only way to find out : ) DJ
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It could simply be faulty mate. Spewin that its happened that way. May have even cooked it… Not saying its your fault, just they (specially the earlier boards) were not the best design. I have purchased a backup board for this same reason But in saying that, I have also done the mosfet upgrade…
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The heatsink and fan are there to cool down the filament inside the duct, Well yes, but its also a part of the heat brake. Which means that you dont melt the teflon tube. and… to help prevent the heat from getting to the the extruder motor etc. The more electronics heat up, the less longer they …
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Oh c’mon. What happened? The suspense is killing me? lol DJ
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Its all good. Please keep us up to date with how it goes. Will be good to see another happy anet user. DJ
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The previous users were correct mate. It is bolts that you use. The same as for the rest of the printer. I dont know where or what manual you are talking about, but understand it is interpreted (poorly) from chinese (where the Anets are made) to english. I generally call this chinglish. I have man…
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Im a little confused on this. You say it is happening only on the right side of the bed. Im guessing you are seeing the stutter on the right side of the bed? But everything is aligned… Do your rods fit perfectly, or do you have space where the rods can move backwards and forwards a little inside…
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Hi guys, hope you dont mind me jumping here… When I did the igus upgrade, not only did I find the rods bent, but I also found that the bed carriage was out of square. The only way I could solve this was by pulling it all apart and then measuring the distance between the bearings etc and making i…
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Not ever having used it before, but have you tried turning on the debugging option in the menu. See if that outputs anything that may give a hint. Do you know also if the extruder motor is functioning? Ive just upgraded my firmware to marlin, so i dont remember if there was a function to test tha…
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Just making sure you have checked you belt tension? Doesnt need to be uber tight. I have mine setup so that with a decent amount of pressure, the belts wont actually touch. Also take the belt off and make sure that the bed can go back and forward smoothly. You should not have any feelings of tig…
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I know this might be a pain, but pull the rods out and roll them around each other, I had something similar happening with what I thought was a smooth carriage but it turned out my robs were bent. And the igus bearings dont allow for it at all as the tolerances are too low.
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Be very careful as to how you have put the extruder back together. Its not as simple as it seems. Here is one video… However I have found this to be the best video on how the best way rebuild an extruder is… This solved a lot of my problems, Hope this helps.
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I did the whole chains and turned the bed etc as well. Found it made doing the leveling painful as I didnt want to mess with firmware etc to get the auto leveling working. The new bed that I purchased uses all four power pins as well.
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I was thinking of the cr-10 as my next printer myself. In regards to the heatbed. I found one on ebay with all four power pins soldered up (way better than the original) and cabled and installed that in the original config. However, I did redo the wires from the actual plug back to the mosfet wit…
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If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay? and have you spent much on upgrades etc since? Is there an xl version? something that prints bigger than the 200 x 280? I have seen this style of printer before and have had concerns about the single motor for y axis. How has this been for you?
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I would agree, thats why I bought one. Plus I am patient. If you want a speed demon or a super accurate printer, dont go there. But I love the fact that I am able to tinker and learn and adapt and refine. I cannot stress how much care needs to be given to print safely. Get a fused power switch …
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Hey John, Check that the sensor is still in the heating block. On my original heat block, the sensor just sat in there and was held in by the tape being wrapped around the heater element wires to hold it in place. Thankfully I was able to catch it before it cause any problems. I have since bough…
